When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was just curious what other changes you need to make for the bigger motor like the voes I heard a guy blew up his new motor because he didn't rework his voes, is the stock cv carb ok.
I don't think the VOES was the cause of the demise of that engine. You would have to be detonating really bad to destroy a new engine. A CV will usually work up to about 88" after that you are losing a lot of performance by using it.
I agree with John. That thing would have to knocking like crazy to pop a new motor.
I took her for the maiden voyage tonight to the gas station. Boy that thing pulls hard. Didn't run it any harder than the break in procedure recommends but that 30 plus inches really puts that 80 to shame. Quiet as can be. It's returning oil to the tank but my cooler really isn't getting very warm. The heads and jugs get hot but not the cooler. I've check the lines and everything is clear and routed correctly. I'm using one of those coolers that mount on the front down tubes from Midwest Motorcycle. Is it possible that it is air locked?
I doubt it, is it controlled by a thermostat? You can take the return hose from the cooler off and see if any oil comes out as you crank it over with the plug wires off. Our cooler doesn't get very warm either, if that makes you feel any better.
Rode her for the first ten mile ride tonight. Oil temp got up to about 190. The cooler got good and hot tonight. There is definitely oil flowing thru the cooler.
Sounds like you are doing great. I remember our first rides, it was colder outside (40's-50's) and short rides were ideal. Often the oil temperature got to about 200-210. I installed an oil cooler when the weather got warmer and oil temperatures always seemed to be closer to 200. The first oil analysis claimed there was NO signs of heat damage to the oil so I am guessing that even though I may think it is getting warmer than it should, it is still OK.
Let me know how it feels after the initial break in and the first time you twist open the throttle all the way in low gear and hold it there up to the red line....just to feel safer, you may want to lean forward when it hits about 4000 rpms as the front end may feel a little lighter than usual.
After you get about 500-1,000 miles you should do a compression and leak down test for a base line. Keep those numbers for future reference. Don't forget to check all the nuts and bolts (don't forget the important electrical connections too!). to ensure that none are coming loose, this is often over looked on these bigger engines which can have a tendency to do so. Hope this helps
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.