EVO All Evo Model Discussion

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 08:30 PM
  #11  
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Default Couldn't wait for weekend to check module

I had to check if the red LED blinked, I just couldn't wait 4 the weekend.
Well it does blink when cranking over, my neighbor has a Dyna coil he is loaning me to try. Now I do have to wait for tomorrow cuz went out, oh well, at least now I know the module may be good. The suspense is gonna kill me over night, I HATE waiting!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 06:36 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mr39
I had to check if the red LED blinked, I just couldn't wait 4 the weekend.
Well it does blink when cranking over, my neighbor has a Dyna coil he is loaning me to try. Now I do have to wait for tomorrow cuz went out, oh well, at least now I know the module may be good. The suspense is gonna kill me over night, I HATE waiting!
Patience grasshopper, patience !!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #13  
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OK, seems the the passed the test, I went a step further and checked the coil impedence, it measured 2.9 ohms, that tells me it is good. So that means something else is preventing the current from getting to the coil. T150vej you mentioned 2 breakers, main & ign, would you mind tellinh me where they are located and how I can ID which is which.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #14  
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94 is late model stuff (to me) and I don't know exactly where the breakers are mounted on a Road King. Maybe some of the others can get you closer...

It blinked on turnover which tells me the coil is getting voltage because the "hot" ties to the coil with the input for the module. That is, if there was no voltage on the plus post of the coil, the module wouldn't have any either. (unless someone wired it up funky) There are 2 wires connected at the hot side of the coil, right? One comes from the kill switch and the other goes to the module. BTW the power to the start button comes from the kill switch so if there was no juice going into the kill, it wouldn't turn over...

Check the other side of the coil also, the spark plug side. There are 2 windings in there and you checked the primary at 2.9 ohms which is fine. Pull the plug wires out and check between the posts - should have about 11,000 - 14,000 ohms (meter may read 11K - 14K)
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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Right 2 wires to the hot terminal which is in the center of the 2 Negative terminals of Crane Cams coil, I just checked between the 2 plug wire posts and I get 18.15 k ohms.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #16  
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A little high, but should fire. Only thing I forgot to ask (again) does the LED come on for a second or 2 then go off when you turn the ignition switch on? It's supposed to, indicating the (module) system is "happy." It is possible for the LED to blink at crankover and the module still be defective...

If it all still looks good, as it does so far, next step would be a borrowed coil before shelling out bucks on a module. And you don't have to have a 3 post coil to check. You can use a standard/stock type by setting the module to "dual-fire" mode. And in all fairness, there are a good number of HI-4 modules out there, but they seem to have a reputation for failure also...
 
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 01:29 PM
  #17  
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It did turn on but did not turn off until I cranked it, then started blinking.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #18  
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R-O-A-R-R-R-R-R-R-R finally I hear and feel the thunder of the EVO S&S 100 roaring to go. Don't know what was was that kept it from starting, only thing I can sum up is the fact that all 3 nut on the coil were not very tight. These are the things I did;

1. remove cam cover verify red LED turns on w/ ign switch on (it did)
2. verify LED blinks when cranking over (it did) but still don'y start
3. remove the tank
4. disconnect the + battery cable
5. remove coil from mount location
6. disconnect plug cables & wires frm terminals ( were not tight)
7. check ohms readings on coil with multi-meter (all checked out good) 2.9 ohms terminal to terminal.
8. check ohms reading from plug posts read 18.15k ohms (high but good reading)
9. re-installed everything and tightend everything really tight
10. checked my Harley manual to locate breakers/relays
11. removed and re-seated all fuse/breakers located behind left frame side cover (all had some corrosion (green) build up, most likely from washing over the years.
12. turned ignition on, pressed start button and who-o-o-a-a-a-l-a-a it started right up, I pulled the choke lever up and stayed on.
13. turned it off, and back on - no problem
14. got my helmet and went for a long needed therapy session on my RK, & now feel much better. Ride could not be as long as I wanted due to other issue re: oil pump. There's nothing like Harley Davidson riding therapy.

I thank all of you and your tips on troubleshooting, your efforts are greatly appreciated. Next task is replacing my oil pump due to noisy valve train after riding about an hour. I will be replacing the S&S pump with the TP smart pump as soon as it arrives due to back ordered, should arrive within next 2 weeks.

Thanks again to all, Angel
 
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Old Dec 6, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #19  
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That's the kind of update we like to see! Very detailed and informative, especially with a happy ending Speaking for many readers besides myself, thank you.

Luv it when the plan comes together...
 
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Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:52 PM
  #20  
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Well my thrill ended very quickly because I went to start my bike the very next day, on Sunday to go for an early morning ride and it would not start again I was so freakin *@#%****:icon_errr r:.
It has got to be an intermittent ignition module or coil. I ordered the DYNA 2KI kit from Eastern Performance Motorcycle parts due to their affordable price compared to the local shops at a $200 savings and free shipping.
So again I am stuck on 4 wheels until I get the ignition/coil kit, looks I may end up getting the oil pump and ign kit around the same time frame, so I will be busy tackling those tasks. I may need some coaching in the process as I have never done either of the two.
 
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