EVO oil
Read a recent study, sorry can't say where, that there is very little difference between the real and fake stuff. The only difference was that the fake stuff handled high heat much better 240-300 degrees. Soooo, in my humble opinion I run the fake stuff and change often. Frequency much more important than brand.
I don't know about the Klearforce unit - but it looks like it's just a magnet that goes around the filter. Kind of hard to believe that an external unit could remove 99% of the ferrous metal passing through the filter it surrounds.
I have a Pure Power SS reusable filter, and love it. If you read the literature, the PP filter passes all of the oil THROUGH the SS mesh in the filter, instead of just across a paper element, as virtually all normal paper filters do. If you think about it, passing all of the oil through a SS mesh seems like a much better way to filter oil than passing it across a pleated paper element. The SS mesh also has almost no resistance to the flow of oil, in contrast to a paper filter element. The PP filter also has two magnets in it to grab ferrous particles from the oil, and I have to believe that these magnets right there in the oil flow would be able to hold onto ferrous particles much better than any magnets placed outside of a regular filter. And, the outer cover of the PP filter also has heat dispersion fins machined into it, to cool the oil as it goes through the filter.
Cleaning the PP filter is not difficult nor time-consuming. You just take the SS mesh element and swish it around in parts cleaner or soapy water, then blow it out and let it dry. Takes all of 10 minutes total, and most of that time is soaking and drying.
Yes, the PP filter is expensive, but it's much much better than a paper filter at filtering all of the oil that goes through it. It puts almost no drag on the engine, because the engine doesn't have to work to force oil through the filter... it flows through the filter nearly effortlessly. You can blow right through the SS mesh.
A few years ago, one of the biker mags did an independent dyno test, and after they put the PP filter and new oil in, their test bagger showed a 9 HP and 7-8 ft/lb torque increase over the previous dyno run using a paper filter. I didn't buy the PP filter for any potential HP/torque gains though - I bought it because I want my engine oil filtered using the best technology available, and I think the PP filter is that.
Paper filters are ancient 1940's technology that is still used on modern, high-performance, and demanding air-cooled H-D engines. That just doesn't make much sense to me. PurePower makes filters for all kinds of heavy-duty vehicles - including aircraft, that have far more demanding performance standards than land-based vehicles do - and they know what they are doing.
I have a Pure Power SS reusable filter, and love it. If you read the literature, the PP filter passes all of the oil THROUGH the SS mesh in the filter, instead of just across a paper element, as virtually all normal paper filters do. If you think about it, passing all of the oil through a SS mesh seems like a much better way to filter oil than passing it across a pleated paper element. The SS mesh also has almost no resistance to the flow of oil, in contrast to a paper filter element. The PP filter also has two magnets in it to grab ferrous particles from the oil, and I have to believe that these magnets right there in the oil flow would be able to hold onto ferrous particles much better than any magnets placed outside of a regular filter. And, the outer cover of the PP filter also has heat dispersion fins machined into it, to cool the oil as it goes through the filter.
Cleaning the PP filter is not difficult nor time-consuming. You just take the SS mesh element and swish it around in parts cleaner or soapy water, then blow it out and let it dry. Takes all of 10 minutes total, and most of that time is soaking and drying.
Yes, the PP filter is expensive, but it's much much better than a paper filter at filtering all of the oil that goes through it. It puts almost no drag on the engine, because the engine doesn't have to work to force oil through the filter... it flows through the filter nearly effortlessly. You can blow right through the SS mesh.
A few years ago, one of the biker mags did an independent dyno test, and after they put the PP filter and new oil in, their test bagger showed a 9 HP and 7-8 ft/lb torque increase over the previous dyno run using a paper filter. I didn't buy the PP filter for any potential HP/torque gains though - I bought it because I want my engine oil filtered using the best technology available, and I think the PP filter is that.
Paper filters are ancient 1940's technology that is still used on modern, high-performance, and demanding air-cooled H-D engines. That just doesn't make much sense to me. PurePower makes filters for all kinds of heavy-duty vehicles - including aircraft, that have far more demanding performance standards than land-based vehicles do - and they know what they are doing.
The oil filters that we use today still might be "ancient 1940's technology" as you descrobe them but for the $200 "PURE POWER" charges I could buy 25 oil filters, and figuring that you would change your oil 2-3 times per year that is at least 8-12 years. I do not see the "PURE POWER" system paying for itself.
As far as "reading the literature", anyone knows that stats can be manipulated to show anything.. If you think that the "PURE POWER" filter system is so great do you have one of each of your vehilces? I'll bet you don't, B]
Last edited by lionsm13; May 10, 2010 at 02:50 PM.
quote: A few years ago, one of the biker mags did an independent dyno test, and after they put the PP filter and new oil in, their test bagger showed a 9 HP
and 7-8 ft/lb torque increase over the previous dyno run using a paper filter. unquote
unless this mag never accepted advertising dollars from "pure power", ever, then I call BS
and 7-8 ft/lb torque increase over the previous dyno run using a paper filter. unquoteunless this mag never accepted advertising dollars from "pure power", ever, then I call BS
It sounds like they had a glitch on their dyno and decided to use it for marketing...I wonder how repeatable their test was....it makes no sense that you can get 9 more HP from a filter ...it doesn't sound technically possible that a filter change can do anything more than a negligible change in HP...maybe they meant to say 0.9HP, that sounds remotely plausible if the wind is behind you.
[B]
The oil filters that we use today still might be "ancient 1940's technology" as you descrobe them but for the $200 "PURE POWER" charges I could buy 25 oil filters, and figuring that you would change your oil 2-3 times per year that is at least 8-12 years. I do not see the "PURE POWER" system paying for itself.
As far as "reading the literature", anyone knows that stats can be manipulated to show anything.. If you think that the "PURE POWER" filter system is so great do you have one of each of your vehilces? I'll bet you don't, B]
The oil filters that we use today still might be "ancient 1940's technology" as you descrobe them but for the $200 "PURE POWER" charges I could buy 25 oil filters, and figuring that you would change your oil 2-3 times per year that is at least 8-12 years. I do not see the "PURE POWER" system paying for itself.
As far as "reading the literature", anyone knows that stats can be manipulated to show anything.. If you think that the "PURE POWER" filter system is so great do you have one of each of your vehilces? I'll bet you don't, B]
To the OP: I use AMSoil 20W-50 syn or Mobil 1 syn in the engine (Mobil 1 inthere now), Mobil 1 Syn ATF in the primary, and Mobil 1 75W-140 Syn Gear Lubricant in the transmission. I used to use AMSoil 20W-50 in all three, but the clutch didn't like the AMSoil - it's really too thick for the primary, and I had trouble finding neutral. The ATF in the primary works much better. Putting the Mobil 1 gear lube in the tranny seems to have made it shift smoother, with less clunk when shifting from neutral to first gear.
When I switched from MoCo dino to syn, I noticed that I also picked up some leaks, probably due to the syn cleaning off deposits on the gaskets as others have said here - but my bike is a 1995 with 44K miles and needs to have probably all of the gaskets replaced anyway. It had 29K miles on it when I got it, and I have no idea how it was treated before I bought it.
The front cylinder base gasket has started bubbling on the right front corner in the last 2K miles, but I am just dealing with the drips and mess until I get around to doing a top end rebuild.
I also have some primary leaks on the seals - probably shifter shaft seal, starter shaft seal, and maybe even the main tranny seal, but I haven't been very motivated to pull off the inner primary to get in there. Probably will this winter...
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