Ultima Trees?
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Tourer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 256
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From: Western NC
Ultima Trees?
I recently put a Wide Glide front end on my 1997 FXD, but I am needing some more rake. Jireh has an awesome deal on their Ultima raked trees, has anyone here ever used these? Any feedback good or bad?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
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From: St. Peters, Missouri
I have Ultima trees on mine....(0* rake).... Got mine thru Jireh as well.
Not a problem, and a nice product.
Last edited by 98 FLHX; Jul 3, 2010 at 01:08 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
Why are you needing more rake? And do you know what your trail currently is, and what it will be if you go to raked trees? Raked trees work well for correcting the trail on a bike whose frame has been raked. They always decrease the trail, and on a stock frame bike that decrease can put your trail into a bad zone. Poor high speed stability, aka a tank-slapper, can kill you. Run the figures before doing this!
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Tourer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 7
From: Western NC
Its stock rake for a superglide, 29 degrees I think. The wide glide forks are longer than the FXD forks...just trying to get the 34 degrees of a wide glide. 5 degree rake isn't going to put it in the danger zone.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,472
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
I thought the WG trees have some rake built into them, may be 3 degrees? IIRC, then the 5 degree trees would probably do the trick, like you're thinking.
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 42
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From: AZ
FXD is 28 degrees, FXDWG is 32 degrees.
The difference in rake is in the frame, not the trees. Yes, 5 degree trees could very well put you into the danger zone, I would say almost definately.
If you actually cut the neck, you can use raked trees to make the geometry right, and put the trail where it need to be.
I have experienced bikes that go from nightmare to one arm at any speed with a 1 degree difference in trees. I have ridden both Dynas and Softails with raked front ends and stock frames, and even 3 degrees is noticable.
Set the bike frame up level at ride height. Measure the trail and check the number you get. If you can run more rake by the numbers, go for it. As mentioned before, proper trail is not anything to mess around with, unless you enjoy high speed wobbles, particularly in corners.
The difference in rake is in the frame, not the trees. Yes, 5 degree trees could very well put you into the danger zone, I would say almost definately.
If you actually cut the neck, you can use raked trees to make the geometry right, and put the trail where it need to be.
I have experienced bikes that go from nightmare to one arm at any speed with a 1 degree difference in trees. I have ridden both Dynas and Softails with raked front ends and stock frames, and even 3 degrees is noticable.
Set the bike frame up level at ride height. Measure the trail and check the number you get. If you can run more rake by the numbers, go for it. As mentioned before, proper trail is not anything to mess around with, unless you enjoy high speed wobbles, particularly in corners.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 256
Likes: 7
From: Western NC
Ok guys, thanks for the responses. I stand corrected about the 5 degree trees being too much. I measured my trail (using lasers) and came up with 3.25" of trail. Darn near exactly what the rake and trail calculator said it would be. The wide glide trees do have some extra rake, 3 degrees according to the calculator. I'm gonna have the neck cut to get about 4 more degrees.
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