Ignition System Recommendations
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,326
Likes: 3,614
From: Picayune, Ms.
I was a little tired last nite when I typed that. You need to drill out the two pop rivets to get to the trigger. And it is not on the pinoin saft but actually the end of the cam shaft.
Sorry if I was a little missleading. Even if it "looks OK" be sure and pull the module and check anyway. It can appear OK but be out of the index.
Don't forget the 242 and torque it down.
Sorry if I was a little missleading. Even if it "looks OK" be sure and pull the module and check anyway. It can appear OK but be out of the index.
Don't forget the 242 and torque it down.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
Well......
Pulled the sensor out, checked the rotor and she was nice and tight. I took it off anyway, to check the alignment and it was good.
I checked the Voltage on the ignition module, and it was 4V across the red and green wire.
Did the cold and hot sensor test and no problems there
Good ground on the module.......
I hate these intermittent problems, they never show up when it is convenient. Since I will be traveling the next 2 weeks for work, I guess it is off to the shop.
Pulled the sensor out, checked the rotor and she was nice and tight. I took it off anyway, to check the alignment and it was good.
I checked the Voltage on the ignition module, and it was 4V across the red and green wire.
Did the cold and hot sensor test and no problems there
Good ground on the module.......
I hate these intermittent problems, they never show up when it is convenient. Since I will be traveling the next 2 weeks for work, I guess it is off to the shop.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
Well......
Pulled the sensor out, checked the rotor and she was nice and tight. I took it off anyway, to check the alignment and it was good.
I checked the Voltage on the ignition module, and it was 4V across the red and green wire.
Did the cold and hot sensor test and no problems there
Good ground on the module.......
I hate these intermittent problems, they never show up when it is convenient. Since I will be traveling the next 2 weeks for work, I guess it is off to the shop.
Pulled the sensor out, checked the rotor and she was nice and tight. I took it off anyway, to check the alignment and it was good.
I checked the Voltage on the ignition module, and it was 4V across the red and green wire.
Did the cold and hot sensor test and no problems there
Good ground on the module.......
I hate these intermittent problems, they never show up when it is convenient. Since I will be traveling the next 2 weeks for work, I guess it is off to the shop.
Have to be frank here.... If that were my bike, I'd go buy a Daytona Twin-Tec ignition kit for about $330 or so from any of the internet outfits. It comes with the excellent Twin Tec ignition module, a new single fire coil, and good plug wires. You have to make up the wires from the kit though. I bagged those, and went out and bought a set of pre-made SE wires at the dealer for all of $13, and a set of SE platinum plugs - $27 total. The Twin Tec ignition kit comes in 7-pin and 8-pin configurations - you'd need the 7-pin version for your '86 FLHTC. You can also get just the ignition module and not the coil - but I got both and I am very pleased with the Twin Tec components.
Life's too short to mess around with electrical crap like this that keeps you and your bike in the garage... get a Twin Tec ignition and put it on, including the single fire coil. You will to run another wire from the module up under your fuel tank to the coil, following their wiring instructions (a blue one with weatherproof fittings is provided in the kit ), and get out and RIDE! Only takes about an hour or so to install the new coil and wire.
If you do this, be sure to cut the tach wire and connect it directly to the brown tach output from the Twin Tec module, using their weatherproof connector, and make sure that the ONLY tach wire goes from the brown lead on the Twin Tec all the way to the tach. I had to fish out the tach wire at the rear of the tank on Bertha, cut it, and connect it to the brown lead on the Twin Tec. On a stock coil, the tach wire is connected to the coil, and you must NOT do this using the Twin Tec.
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
Got an email to a mate in Ohio. He has a great Indy guy he will talk to. Unless he has any other suggestions, it will be a trip to J&P tomorrow.
Since they are only an hour and a half away, its always a nice drive.
I will post my final outcome.
Since they are only an hour and a half away, its always a nice drive.
I will post my final outcome.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
Will your bike make the trip in its current state??? Seems a shame to make that trip in a cage...
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
Got a call this morning, and they confirmed that everything points to the module..
I will play it safe and take the cage
At least I will be able to ride tomorrow!
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 7
From: North Atlanta Area, GA
What module are you going to get? If you stay stock, you might want to try to get the SE module 32421-85A or the '91 Police module 32419-91A... better spark advance curve and a higher rev limit than the stock unit. I'd still go with the Twin Tec, though. Good luck!
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
Going to go with the Twin Tec
Since my motor is far from stock...... SE Heads, EV27 Cam, SS Shorty E carb. 10.5:1 Comp with electric Comp Release.
If I understand correctly, the Twin Tech will allow me to adjust the curves, If i get their software, and since I like to tinker
Since my motor is far from stock...... SE Heads, EV27 Cam, SS Shorty E carb. 10.5:1 Comp with electric Comp Release.
If I understand correctly, the Twin Tech will allow me to adjust the curves, If i get their software, and since I like to tinker
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From:
Pulled the trigger today and purchased the Twin Tec 1005 Ignition System. Bike is running great, only have 5 miles so far. I will take her out tomorrow and settle on a curve. I currently have it set in Race Mode Multi Spark on no. 7 curve.
Since I do most of my riding 2-up, I may need to tweak this.
May need to drop it down to a street mode.
Since I do most of my riding 2-up, I may need to tweak this.
May need to drop it down to a street mode.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
my 85 was running like you described. i changed everything in the ignition circuit and nothing helped. the only thing that was left to change was the ignition circuit breaker that is under the speedo/ tach. that was the problem. 15 amp circuit breaker, $10 at an auto parts store. i have 3 breakers under there so i just changed all 3. it might not hurt to change the main breaker too.
