Compensator Nut LEFT or Right hand threads?
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Compensator Nut LEFT or Right hand threads?
Hey all - fixing to swap out the stator, rotor, & regulator on my '95 softail. Is the compensator nut threaded "normal"? as in righty tighty, left loosey?
Thanks!
btw - YES, I have a service manual - it just doesn't specify the direction of the threads.
Thanks!
G
Thanks!
btw - YES, I have a service manual - it just doesn't specify the direction of the threads.
Thanks!
G
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
My manual makes the point of stating that the clutch hub nut is left-hand, but says nothing of the compensator. As they are both described in the same Section it suggests that is right-hand. Hopefully someone who has done it will pass by soon!
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 535
Likes: 14
From: Highspire Pa
If I remember correctly the compensator nut was normal and the clutch hub nut was left hand threads. I had a hard time with the compensator nut until I used a locking device, even a little movement will prevent it from breaking loose.
here is a useful thread with pictures that I had bookmarked and the fellow shows how he made a locking device out of a old cutting board, another I read about made his out of oak:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...need-help.html
here is a picture from that thread:
here is a useful thread with pictures that I had bookmarked and the fellow shows how he made a locking device out of a old cutting board, another I read about made his out of oak:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...need-help.html
here is a picture from that thread:
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 737
Likes: 4
From: Scotland,UK
Remember to use Heavy Duty Loctite when reassembling to the appropriate Torque.
Another thing I would recommend is to order/buy the 2 VERY SMALL COUNTERSUNK SCREWS which hold the small "bridge" that the wires go under before exiting the Casing.. I had a problem loosening these Screws as a previous owner,of my bike, had "chewed up" the Phillips/star heads and they were a b****** to remove.
I renewed these Screws initially with slightly "domed",instead of Countersunk Screws as I foolishly thought they would do the job as the thread was the same. Bad mistake!!!! the "domed" top of the Screw I had fitted rubbed against the edge of the Rotor, causing a noise and of course the accompanying tiny metal "shards" in the Primary Case. I had to strip everything down again and replace those 2 Screws with the correct H.D.ones. Hope this is of some interest,or help. Bungo.
Last edited by BungoBill; Aug 20, 2010 at 04:52 AM. Reason: spelling error
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 293
Likes: 7
Clutch and trans are L/H thread.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
Comp nut is 1 1/2" right hand, clutch nut is 1 3/16" left hand, chain tensioner is 9/16" rt, stator is T27 rt.
Make sure you put a coat of silicon on the stator plug before you push it through the case then a small dab around it on the outside will help to keep it seep free for it's lifetime.
A good 1/2" impact makes the job very easy and quick.
Make sure you put a coat of silicon on the stator plug before you push it through the case then a small dab around it on the outside will help to keep it seep free for it's lifetime.
A good 1/2" impact makes the job very easy and quick.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 293
Likes: 7
Comp nut is 1 1/2" right hand, clutch nut is 1 3/16" left hand, chain tensioner is 9/16" rt, stator is T27 rt.
Make sure you put a coat of silicon on the stator plug before you push it through the case then a small dab around it on the outside will help to keep it seep free for it's lifetime.
A good 1/2" impact makes the job very easy and quick.
Make sure you put a coat of silicon on the stator plug before you push it through the case then a small dab around it on the outside will help to keep it seep free for it's lifetime.
A good 1/2" impact makes the job very easy and quick.
Not all stator plugs are silicon friendly by design. I would recommend the Genuine HD stator, (LATE 32 amp), that has the fully encapsulated plug, with the backstop, and 3 sealing fins. NO SEALER on that style.
If anyone has used sealer before then it must all be cleaned out, as it is just as likely to cause a leak as seal one in that area.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
Not all stator plugs are silicon friendly by design. I would recommend the Genuine HD stator, (LATE 32 amp), that has the fully encapsulated plug, with the backstop, and 3 sealing fins. NO SEALER on that style.
If anyone has used sealer before then it must all be cleaned out, as it is just as likely to cause a leak as seal one in that area.
If anyone has used sealer before then it must all be cleaned out, as it is just as likely to cause a leak as seal one in that area.
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Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
All. thanks for the info! I used an impact to remove the nut. New stator & rotor in place.
Waiting for a replacement outer spring for my M-6 Chain Tensioner now. When I pulled the primary, I found the outer spring literally in pieces! and so it goes....
Waiting for a replacement outer spring for my M-6 Chain Tensioner now. When I pulled the primary, I found the outer spring literally in pieces! and so it goes....
