lifter block screw size?
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 66
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From: oklahoma
lifter block screw size?
I am in process of changing my cam,bearing,etc. I apperantly do not have the correct socket to remove the lifter block screws so I will need to go out and but one, question is:
is it a specialty tool for this or Is it a 12 point socket? and what size?
thanks in advance, just trying to save time and money not buying whole set or going back and forth trying to find correct size.
is it a specialty tool for this or Is it a 12 point socket? and what size?
thanks in advance, just trying to save time and money not buying whole set or going back and forth trying to find correct size.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
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From: Middle of Kansas
It is a 1/4" 12 point. I got mine at Sears after looking everywhere else. I think Sears has every socket ever made. The one I got is also a deep socket which works really well on those lifter block bolts. I believe this socket also works on the front inside brake pad screw. Probably some other places also.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
Right on both counts, although I have yet to find anything else!
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 66
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From: oklahoma
thanks all... I was under the impression that with adjustable pushrods you wouldn't have to remove these but when I opened her up and started i noticed the lifters where just a bit to long to remove without removing drive/pinion gear.so blocks are coming off. hope all goes back together well. loading it up tomorrow to have cam bearing pulled/installed at local indy.then back home for me to install new parts.
on another subject still related, The reason I'm changing all is I heard a light chirp perodically coming frome that area so figured it might be bearing wearing out(32,000), once I opened I noticed breather valve thrust washer was laying under the oil pump drive gear, which I at first thought feel there removing oil cone. but on further inspection it looks to be chipped and scrapped up in several locations, could this have been the noise?
what do you all think? also it is a .135 measured with dial indicator,breather valve looks good, what would cause this to drop with nose cone in place? IF that is what happened...haven't had chance to inspect bearing or lifter rollers yet..
on another subject still related, The reason I'm changing all is I heard a light chirp perodically coming frome that area so figured it might be bearing wearing out(32,000), once I opened I noticed breather valve thrust washer was laying under the oil pump drive gear, which I at first thought feel there removing oil cone. but on further inspection it looks to be chipped and scrapped up in several locations, could this have been the noise?
what do you all think? also it is a .135 measured with dial indicator,breather valve looks good, what would cause this to drop with nose cone in place? IF that is what happened...haven't had chance to inspect bearing or lifter rollers yet..
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 127
From: Middle of Kansas
I am betting it fell off when you removed the cam cover. I know mine did. Once you have the push rods out, you can raise the lifters by hand to pull the cam out. You can make clips out of paper clips to hold the lifters up while removing the cam also. Otherwise you are right, the lifter guides will have to be removed to compeletly remove the lifters. I removed mine when I changed my cam brg. so that I could inspect them. Also gives you more room to check things out and a place to pour oil in after replacing the cam to cover the gears and cam lobes.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,856
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From: Middle of Kansas
One other little tidbit of info. Don't do what I did. I replaced the "O" rings on the push rod covers, but did not see the little steel shim that goes on the bottom "O" ring, that is until I had the push rods in and adjusted. Sooo! I had to take them back out to put in the shims. I'm probably the only one. LOL
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
If you are doing this job and you have standard pushrods you can save time by knocking out the rocker spindles (with piston at TDC compression of course) ...you will need to take out the two bolts on the pushrod side of the rocker mount as they hold the spindles in place.
On reassembly you take the spring clip out of the lifter, extract the innards with a magnet and tip all the oil out...reassemble lifters and replace the rockers and spindles (make sure you get the cut outs lined up ready for the bolts to pass thorugh), torque the two bolts up and finish the job as normal.
It will rattle like a **** when you start the motor but go for a 5 mile ride and it will be quiet once more.
Should save at least an hour and also 2 gaskets.
On reassembly you take the spring clip out of the lifter, extract the innards with a magnet and tip all the oil out...reassemble lifters and replace the rockers and spindles (make sure you get the cut outs lined up ready for the bolts to pass thorugh), torque the two bolts up and finish the job as normal.
It will rattle like a **** when you start the motor but go for a 5 mile ride and it will be quiet once more.
Should save at least an hour and also 2 gaskets.
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