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On my '96 5 sp, I have had a problem with the inner primary bearing inner race, which is on the mainshaft, moving out and allowing primary fluid to leak. Last time I had it apart, I needed to get it back together quickly, couldn't get a new race soon enough, so I measured and calculated carefully, double checked my measurements with the clutch hub installed and insertion of gauge blocks, and made a steel spacer to fit between the inside of the clutch hub and the inner race. I left a few thousanths clearance, but when the race moves/moved out, it will butt up against the clutch hub, and no further.
I feel that I thought it out carefully, and ran it by a very experienced wrench/friend, but wonder if there is any reason I might have overlooked for not doing this.
It's been in there for several weeks, and some hard running, and hasn't leaked yet. Last time I pushed it back into place without the spacer, it started leaking after a half-dozen WOT runs through the gears. Of course, it might have helped that I did a complete realignment of the engine, tranny, and mounts the last time I put it back together.
Any thoughts?
The inner bearing upgrades kind of do the same thing. They do not use the inside clip and the bearing itself almost touches the hub. There may be some negatives to the upgrade but I couldnt find any. When the upgrade only costs 40 bucks, I cann't see putting the factory setup back in a primary.
I don't know if I'm misunderstanding your post but that inner race is slightly pressed on the mainshaft and shouldn't move at all unless it is spun out which does happen. Baker has a 1 piece bearing if needed and I recently found out that the HD seal is offset towards the race further over the Cometic seal and is a better design.
I have done a few inner primaries races where I wish I could just pull the damn thing off!!! 2 out of 3 I end up cutting them off with a Dremel because even the bearing puller wont shift them.
There is an inner race with ridges on for 6-speeds that prevents race-walk....I think its an S&S part...
Thanks for the responses, all.
I've been using Harley seals in the inner primary. The race is tight on the shaft, it takes a good bit of force to push it back in. I read somewhere that it's a common problem in big inch bikes, and although mine isn't all that big, I do ride it hard at times.
I have seen a Baker replacement race somewhere that is supposed to eliminate the problem, but couldn't find it when I went looking for it.
Topfuel17, who makes the bearing upgrade you refer to?
Spanners39, a friend told me the same thing. I had to pull this one off about 6 months ago to replace the seal behind it, and it was a bitch to pull. A friend in the business tells me he doesn't even try to pull them any more, just cuts them most of the way and breaks them with a chisel...
Edited to add that I recently vented my primary, after I ruined a new shirt on a high speed interstate blast. It appeared that tranny fluid was pushing up the clutch cable and dripping from the cable/ lever junction. S&S now tells me the reed valve breathers aren't working out so well on bigger motors, and to try their steel gear...
The tranny vent is open.
Edited again to add that yes, I did follow the S&S instructions for the breather port when I built the engine.
Last edited by Panshovevo; Nov 10, 2011 at 07:09 AM.
I used the Jims but I believe it is the same as the Baker and the All ***** upgrade. It is a sealed bearing but it still comes with a mainshaft seal. It seals against the shaft itself instead of the race. It is a double ball bearing that is wider than the stock bearing and you don't even use the inside clip. I was afraid it would have room to shift since there wasn't a clip on the clutch side. A friend of mine checked his with some putty and it almost touches the clutch hub.
Thanks for the link and all of the information, guys. Much appreciated. I'll probably pick up one of those bearings to have on hand for the next time I pull it apart.
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