Drag pipe question?
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
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From: Richmond, VA
Drag pipe question?
I am a drag pipe guy and hope to be till I can't ride any more. As a general rule I always buy the cheapest set you can possibly get on ebay. I always install torque cones as well. I am about to buy another set. Are the more expensive pipes actually any better? Are the Paughco or Cycle Shack drag pipes any different than whatever the hell I get on ebay? Chrome better? Fit better? Resist bluing longer? I'm at a point with the bike were even though we are talking well over double or triple the cost, if the quality really is that much better, I will pull the trigger. If its really all the same $hit, then I'll buy the cheapies again. Please advise.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
I get that, I really do. But I'm just wondering why. Are they really any better? Are they that different? If so, why? Better chrome, thicker metal, better welds, better exhaust seal..... you know what I mean, why? I'll make the plunge if I feel its a better product, I'm just wondering what makes one hollow chrome tube any better than the next hollow chrome tube.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,897
From: Bedford UK
Really cheap tube is made from a sheet of cheap steel, wrapped into a cylinder and welded along its length. It's machine made like that and will easily take the bends a Harley drag pipe needs. Better quality tube is die-formed as a tube, with no welding and will take tight bends better than the cheap stuff, but requires a decent grade of steel to form that way.
A top quality tube such as stainless steel should give a lifetime of service, and will take chrome plate very well. There are different quality levels of chrome plate, the cheaper ones being chrome on nickel, the expensive ones are chrome on nickel on copper. The finish is dependent on the polishing of the base tube and maintaining the finish at each stage of the plating process.
So there are many ways of producing a set of pipes, although finding out exactly what each brand does to make theirs may be a problem, unless they make a point of advertising what they do.
Cheap chrome won't last long before it wears through and shows the nickel underneath. It won't hold rust of the steel back for long either. Better quality tube won't rust so fast and better chrome will last longer before losing its looks. Chrome on stainless, or plain stainless, will last us all out!
Hope that helps a bit.....
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Canada
My pipes are basically drag pipe's, they just cost me more than a cheap set,they don't turn blue, and will never need replacing. So some more expensive pipes may be better, but some may also just be overpriced, made in china junk. I have seen lots of blue pipes that guys paid between 150 and 400 bucks for.
If you don't mind changing pipes every few years keep buying what works for you, If you want to stop buying pipes, you will need to spend some cash.
If you don't mind changing pipes every few years keep buying what works for you, If you want to stop buying pipes, you will need to spend some cash.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
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From: Richmond, VA
Thanks guys. I went ahead and bought the Paughco 731DY40 40"-Long Evolution Dyna Slash cut Drag Pipes. I'm running the Paughco forks and when I compare the Paughco chrome on my Springer to the DNA Springer chrome, well, there is absolutely no comparison. So I made the leap based on your guys opinions, my limited experience, and went Paughco. I can't verify by looking at the site, but I want to believe they are made in the US by Paughco, and not imported by Paughco. I also bought a new set of gaskets, new torque cones and 4 new clamps (got to carry spares in the bags). Grand total was $189 delivered for everything. I could have just spent $59 bucks for a 2" set on ebay that was an exact replacement of what I have now and be done with it, but I went down to the 1 3/4 Paughco pipes and got everything else I needed. At now least I have what I hope are really good pipes, and everything I need to get them on. I actually feel good about this...lol.
Last edited by bikerlaw; Feb 20, 2012 at 08:05 AM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Do yourself a favor and don't install the "torque cones". We use to use them, but found out with the ethanol gas the cones were running very hot and so were the valves. Instead use the "lolipop or washer" method on the end of the pipes. This also gives the exhaust pulses a larger area for the pulses and we've found it works better. Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,193
Likes: 494
From: Richmond, VA
Do yourself a favor and don't install the "torque cones". We use to use them, but found out with the ethanol gas the cones were running very hot and so were the valves. Instead use the "lollipop or washer" method on the end of the pipes. This also gives the exhaust pulses a larger area for the pulses and we've found it works better. Hope this helps.
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 8
From: Powder Springs, GA
I don’t know what brand my pipes were but I wrapped them so who cares. However they are VERY thick which is a good thing especially since they are wrapped.
On the subject of the washer trick I actually just ordered these below. He is a member on this site. I normally make my own washer set up so my fingers are crossed that they are worth the 22 bucks.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Thunder-Torque-Inserts-118-Model-Family-DK-TTI-118.htm
On the subject of the washer trick I actually just ordered these below. He is a member on this site. I normally make my own washer set up so my fingers are crossed that they are worth the 22 bucks.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Thunder-Torque-Inserts-118-Model-Family-DK-TTI-118.htm