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I have it set to 1 . Backed off timing a bit and is running good starting a little slow but no kickback. I'll try setting it to 2. Thanks
That's what I'm talking about JohnFlorida is the starting a little slow like its turning over an engine that has a very high compression.
I was also wandering what the result would be to put the voes wire on a toggle switch so it could be grounded for starting the bike and switched back on once the bike was running for normal mode setting switch 1 to off.
Set the curve to 2 and really didnt make a difference on starting. I had the timing advanced pretty far so just backing it off a bit did the trick. I left the curve at 2 to see how it works . It was turning over like a high compression motor but it was worse when cold
Set the curve to 2 and really didnt make a difference on starting. I had the timing advanced pretty far so just backing it off a bit did the trick. I left the curve at 2 to see how it works . It was turning over like a high compression motor but it was worse when cold
When you initially set up the timeing by turning crank to tdc front compression stroke with the line centred in the hole and light just turning off when you turned back plate was the line pretty dead centre in hole? Seems to me this year when I did this there seems to be a differnce in that starting/compression build up.
I'm not trying to steal this thread but I find this thread simular to a problem i had and interesting. I had a severe starter kickback with a new RK I bought years ago. Never knew when I cranked it over if it was going to start or almost destroy itself with the loadest kickback noise in the world. I would cringe every time I hit the button expecting the starter to rip itself out of the side of the motor but it never happened. I stated buying parts to do a cam job and one of the items was a Compu-Fire programable ignition. I decided to use the ignition while I was still hunting down parts for the job. Things happened and the cam job was put on hold for a while but it didn't take long to notice the kickbacks disappeared. I mean it just never happened again. My only guess was it had something to do with the spark advance and timing. The only thing I did was set the ignition up going by the manufactures instructions and recommendations and the problem was solved. Maybe someone here can explain what happened because I'd really like to know. I think it's simular to this topic.
I don't know why people don't want to run the VOES. It isn't a "smog device" that robs performance. Any change in performance with it hooked up wouldn't be noticed. However if you don't hook it up your timing will be retarded through the whole range. This will make the engine run hotter, lose performance, and use more fuel. If you disconnect it and ground the wire out it will run advanced and can detonate and damage the engine. If you have a light bike with lots of gear and run very agressively at upper rpm ranges you could probably get away with grounding it out, but even then I wouldn't do it. Trust me I get my parts at or below wholesale and I wouldn't run with out one, and our stret engines make decent horsepower. Hope this helps.
I'm not trying to steal this thread but I find this thread simular to a problem i had and interesting. I had a severe starter kickback with a new RK I bought years ago. Never knew when I cranked it over if it was going to start or almost destroy itself with the loadest kickback noise in the world. I would cringe every time I hit the button expecting the starter to rip itself out of the side of the motor but it never happened. I stated buying parts to do a cam job and one of the items was a Compu-Fire programable ignition. I decided to use the ignition while I was still hunting down parts for the job. Things happened and the cam job was put on hold for a while but it didn't take long to notice the kickbacks disappeared. I mean it just never happened again. My only guess was it had something to do with the spark advance and timing. The only thing I did was set the ignition up going by the manufactures instructions and recommendations and the problem was solved. Maybe someone here can explain what happened because I'd really like to know. I think it's simular to this topic.
Yep so is mine. My inquirey was more to the point of if a toggle switch was connected to the voes switch so that when the bike is started and toggle switched so voes is grounded would there be a load taken off the starter compared to the voes set on the switches to normal on?
Another thought also came to me and that is like you did JohnFlorida retarding the backplate a bit will that not throw off total advance on the curve? Or does it still reach full advance potential and just lessen the firing time before tdc?
Last edited by RidemyEVO; Mar 12, 2012 at 05:51 PM.
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