starter kickback
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Yep so is mine. My inquirey was more to the point of if a toggle switch was connected to the voes switch so that when the bike is started and toggle switched so voes is grounded would there be a load taken off the starter compared to the voes set on the switches to normal on?
Another thought also came to me and that is like you did JohnFlorida retarding the backplate a bit will that not throw off total advance on the curve? Or does it still reach full advance potential and just lessen the firing time before tdc?
Another thought also came to me and that is like you did JohnFlorida retarding the backplate a bit will that not throw off total advance on the curve? Or does it still reach full advance potential and just lessen the firing time before tdc?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Thanks John I always appreciate your input. Any thought on my second point of retarding the backplate a bit will that not throw off total advance on the curve? Or does it still reach full advance potential and just lessen the firing time before tdc?
Thanks
Thanks
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Just turn the plate counterclockwise a little and see what happens. The best way is to take out both plugs, put the bike in high gear, and with the rear wheel off of the ground have a friend turn/bump the wheel around with your finger over the front cylinder until you feel air coming out and the timing mark is centered. If tou go past turn the wheel backwards and slowly bring it back up. Then with the ignition on turn the plate until the light just goes out. Lock it down and try it there. You may still have to move it after that as once in a blue moon if you take all the possible errors and stack the up you can end up with the timing slightly advanced or retarded. On most engines it usually won't make a difference, there are some that it will affect. Hope this helps.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 191
Likes: 2
How did installing the new programable ignition change the timing, I didn't physically change the timing manually. The ignition was an external plug n play unit.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Ok so I finally got a chance to get out for a ride and had a couple questions that will hopefully help others as well.
So I did retard the timing plate from innitial setup on the Ultima 54-644 set at curve 2 and voes on and starts fine. I went out on the hiway and hit the flats as well as some big hills ( we call the hill the mile hill, good grade ) going up hill I got no pinging at all and pulled real good, on the flats it does seem a bit of a lugger, best I could get out of it was 85 mph and that was WOT and that took a bit of distance, let off on the throttle and no change in speed like it didn;t lunge forward just slowed. So to the question if I were to retard the engine too much and or had the ignition set to the wrong curve would the motor be boggy like I've described? Also what am I looking for in dialing in the timing other than no pinging?
Thanks
So I did retard the timing plate from innitial setup on the Ultima 54-644 set at curve 2 and voes on and starts fine. I went out on the hiway and hit the flats as well as some big hills ( we call the hill the mile hill, good grade ) going up hill I got no pinging at all and pulled real good, on the flats it does seem a bit of a lugger, best I could get out of it was 85 mph and that was WOT and that took a bit of distance, let off on the throttle and no change in speed like it didn;t lunge forward just slowed. So to the question if I were to retard the engine too much and or had the ignition set to the wrong curve would the motor be boggy like I've described? Also what am I looking for in dialing in the timing other than no pinging?
Thanks
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Yes it would be boggy. Be sure to check the carb to ensure you have full throttle. You have no idea how many bike we see that aren't getting full throttle, also check to see if the slide goes all the way up and back down easily.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Yes John Voes is hooked up, sportster needed and near as I can tell its getting full throttle at least when I twist the throttle the cable is turning the carb to max cable pull on carb.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Take your finger and make sure the slide goes up and down easily. If it does then take the top off of the carb and make sure that the diaphragm is in properly and has no holes or tears, as this would prevent it from going all the way up. You are sure that when you twist the throttle that the carb goes against the throttle stop?? Hope this helps.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,039
Likes: 11
From: Northern Ontario
Working days John but when I get home I will check what you said and
Definately recheck the cable to make sure I'm getting wot. Seems to me that every time I had Carb off and had to disconnect cable from carb there was no adjuster on the cable and it just connected on the cable eye end and I'd slip the sheath of the cable into the holder as well as at the throttle all there is is an elbow. So you are probably correct with the cable.
Definately recheck the cable to make sure I'm getting wot. Seems to me that every time I had Carb off and had to disconnect cable from carb there was no adjuster on the cable and it just connected on the cable eye end and I'd slip the sheath of the cable into the holder as well as at the throttle all there is is an elbow. So you are probably correct with the cable.