Random problem when starting
Thank you, Texas!
Glad to know it can replace the old one. I emailed them to check and today answered the following (I imagine in order to make D1ggers' two relay way and get full potential):
"The Start Boost relay does not replace the original starter relay. The original stays where it is undisturbed. This unit changes where the coil gets power from within the circuit. A certain amount of rewiring will be needed. It is not too extensive though.
You will need to find the wire that supplies power to the coil. It should be white. That wire is removed from the coil and goes to the 86 terminal on the relay. You will need to make a new wire to go from the 85 terminal to ground. A new wire from the battery to the 87 terminal. And a new wire from the 30 terminal to the coil where you took the original power wire from."
Glad to know it can replace the old one. I emailed them to check and today answered the following (I imagine in order to make D1ggers' two relay way and get full potential):
"The Start Boost relay does not replace the original starter relay. The original stays where it is undisturbed. This unit changes where the coil gets power from within the circuit. A certain amount of rewiring will be needed. It is not too extensive though.
You will need to find the wire that supplies power to the coil. It should be white. That wire is removed from the coil and goes to the 86 terminal on the relay. You will need to make a new wire to go from the 85 terminal to ground. A new wire from the battery to the 87 terminal. And a new wire from the 30 terminal to the coil where you took the original power wire from."
If you want more than the standard response you have to call and ask a tech.
Yes, you get full response with that wiring written in blue, it was a email from Crane's tech guy.
Cheers!
Last edited by Nostalgia_93; Jul 12, 2012 at 01:53 PM.
Hi, guys!
Can't wait receiving the relay :-) Will follow D1gger' wise advise of replacing the original with it and test how it goes. If needed, will add the cable from battery to 30 connector.
Cheers,
Can't wait receiving the relay :-) Will follow D1gger' wise advise of replacing the original with it and test how it goes. If needed, will add the cable from battery to 30 connector.
Cheers,
Relays do have " contact points " which are subject to wear and arc deposits.
Considering the low cost i would suggest replacement of ALL relays you can
find on an older bike. Any good automotive type relay will do and upping the amp. capability from 30 to 40 amps is also a good idea. Go to any auto. electrical shop for good quality relays for approx. $ 6.00 to $ 8.00 each.
Clean your bar switches... with bat. disconnected , shoot some contact cleaner or WD40 into the switch , cycle the switch until fluid comes out clear . Blow out with canned air or allow to dry before reconnecting the bat.
If you are installing any in line fuses as pictured do not use the buss type with a glass tube fuse ! They will corrode and fall apart .
Instead use an inline fuse that has a covered automotive type double bayonet type of fuse. Seal the assy. completely with non conductive electrical sylicone
inside and out to prevent corrosion .
New relay connector blocks and above described inline fuses are available at any auto parts store.
Considering the low cost i would suggest replacement of ALL relays you can
find on an older bike. Any good automotive type relay will do and upping the amp. capability from 30 to 40 amps is also a good idea. Go to any auto. electrical shop for good quality relays for approx. $ 6.00 to $ 8.00 each.
Clean your bar switches... with bat. disconnected , shoot some contact cleaner or WD40 into the switch , cycle the switch until fluid comes out clear . Blow out with canned air or allow to dry before reconnecting the bat.
If you are installing any in line fuses as pictured do not use the buss type with a glass tube fuse ! They will corrode and fall apart .
Instead use an inline fuse that has a covered automotive type double bayonet type of fuse. Seal the assy. completely with non conductive electrical sylicone
inside and out to prevent corrosion .
New relay connector blocks and above described inline fuses are available at any auto parts store.
Crimp connectors will do the job as long as you weatherproof them by using shrink tubes and a propane torch.
If you havent done this before i suggest you practise first to see how much heat is required to shrink the tubing properly etc.
When purchasing the shrink tubes , be sure to purchase the correct size for the wires you need to seal .
I usually add a dab of dieletric sylicone to each end of the butt connectors to seal them before shrinking the tubes for insurance of a good weatherproof seal.
If you do all of the above , you will have an excellent weatherproof connection that will last for many years.
If you havent done this before i suggest you practise first to see how much heat is required to shrink the tubing properly etc.
When purchasing the shrink tubes , be sure to purchase the correct size for the wires you need to seal .
I usually add a dab of dieletric sylicone to each end of the butt connectors to seal them before shrinking the tubes for insurance of a good weatherproof seal.
If you do all of the above , you will have an excellent weatherproof connection that will last for many years.
Thank you for the great tips, machinehed!
Didn't know about this type of fuse, now I understand why a fuse on the wire that feeds a Tom Tom Rider GPS blows with time :-). Will replace it with one of these. -
Do you know best recommended amp value for the GPS?
EDIT: resolved: 2 amp :-)
This kind of fuse, I imagine (first time I see them) :-)

Cheers,
Didn't know about this type of fuse, now I understand why a fuse on the wire that feeds a Tom Tom Rider GPS blows with time :-). Will replace it with one of these. -
Do you know best recommended amp value for the GPS?
EDIT: resolved: 2 amp :-)
This kind of fuse, I imagine (first time I see them) :-)

Cheers,
Last edited by Nostalgia_93; Jul 15, 2012 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Adding gps amp value
Hi Guys!
The relay arrived today, finished replacing the old one rightnow.
All good, starts like a buffalo. :-)
Haven't had the time to test it in use to see if I get the "click", but if I ever get just one, the extra wire will go there :-) The other day I also serviced the contacts and bar switches with contact cleaner.
Thanks guys!!
PD. Today, I asked for the 20amp fuse similar like machinehed said, and they could only deliver 30 amp, could those work? Just to know.
Same thing with the 2 amp fuse for the GPS... They just have that amperage with cristal fuses...
The relay arrived today, finished replacing the old one rightnow.
All good, starts like a buffalo. :-)
Haven't had the time to test it in use to see if I get the "click", but if I ever get just one, the extra wire will go there :-) The other day I also serviced the contacts and bar switches with contact cleaner.
Thanks guys!!
PD. Today, I asked for the 20amp fuse similar like machinehed said, and they could only deliver 30 amp, could those work? Just to know.
Same thing with the 2 amp fuse for the GPS... They just have that amperage with cristal fuses...
Last edited by Nostalgia_93; Jul 16, 2012 at 03:28 PM.
[quote=Nostalgia_93;10079130]
PD. Today, I asked for the 20amp fuse similar like machinehed said, and they could only deliver 30 amp, could those work? Just to know.
[quote]
The fuse machinehed described is a mini blade fuse and you can get those in any size you want.
As for the 2 amp fuse http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...120716223720:s
Not sure who you asked but they don't know a damn thing.
PD. Today, I asked for the 20amp fuse similar like machinehed said, and they could only deliver 30 amp, could those work? Just to know.
[quote]
The fuse machinehed described is a mini blade fuse and you can get those in any size you want.
As for the 2 amp fuse http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...120716223720:s
Not sure who you asked but they don't know a damn thing.






