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I see that the heavy duty rotor does not come with the spacers.
OK lets make this more confusing...lol. 70-90 rotors has a "spacer" made on to them...91-up did not...the 1/4" spacer is so the rotor will fit both. There are also at least three different rotors depending on which amperage charging you are using...and you cannot interchange them and expect your charging system to have full output.
I just got done checking the Votage regulator per i believe Dr. Hess's checklist for checking the VR. It seems to check good, i have the multimeter on diode setting, and with the neg. lead on the charge wire at the c.b. and the pos. lead to either ac output pin on VR, i am getting a reading of 495 (whatever the value is for diode test) on either pin. Then switched the leads so the neg. is now on the pins i get infinate on either pin. Next connected the neg. lead to either output pin and the pos. lead to case of VR and get the same 495-497 reading with either pin. Switch leads again so the pos. lead in on the output pins and i get infinate reading on either pin. Tested case of VR to ground and showed like 1 or 2 ohms. So arfter all this i do believe i'll just get a just new stator and save myself a few bucks, which i'll see if i can find myself a resonably prcied hooker and a bottle of Jack.
To test the reg you just hook up a voltmeter, at idle you should get at leat 12.85v DC and when you rev it it should peak at around 14v...15+ is too much and the reg is shot.
Put the rotor on the shaft inside out, magnets towards you, measure the clearance between the rotor and which ever stator you buy. Measure the clearance in this position, easy because the magnets aren't trying to cut your fingers off. Can't remember the clearance but I'm sure someone else will. If I don't see it pop-up I'll look it up for you.
Check for chips in the magnets, usually the corners/edges get a little dinged up, if they are I'd discard the rotor.
Think of the rotor magnets as oars on a boat, at first they pull the boat forward; then they push the boat forward. The poles of the magnet first move the electrons one way then the other pole pulls them back, thus alternating current. Now if the oars aren't in sync then the boat won't move in a straight line, ditto for the magnets. Now the regulator can straighten some/most/all of this out.
HD regulators do not disconnect the stator if it goes bad or if the battery is charged up, it shorts to ground and keeps the stator loaded up. That is why they burn out.
Have you ever hear of an automotive stator burning out? I haven't, because the magnetic field is voltage regulated, it takes voltage to produce electricity. HD uses permanent magnets, so if a magnet passes a coil voltage WILL be produced.
This is why after four voltage regulators I got smart and replaced the entire system with one from compu-fire and never had another problem. (a minimum of 80,000 miles) Of course it could burn out tomorrow. Compu-fire shuts the system down when fully charged condition is reached.
I've been through 2 stators and 3 regulators in the last 2 years. My last stator and regulator change was about six weeks ago. The regulator started overcharging a few days ago. I changed it and all is well again.
I saw a life time warranted complete setup in the J&P catalog. I think maybe I'll do that next time.
92 FLHTCU / 2013 S&S motor (Engine Change). Cranks but not charging.
Stator bad so replaced. Did not replace the rotor. The rotor is not solid but is spongy or rocks when put on. Have not tightened. When replacing a stator, should I have bought the accompanying rotor also?
Apologies but I am learning as I go. ANY assistance would be helpful. Attached is a picture of the old rotor, same one currently using.
Id stick with what was stock with your bike. If you run a lot of doodads like extra lights, radio, CB then maybe going up is good. Understand higher output takes more power from your engine.
If money is super tight dont be even the least bit afraid of the Ultima kits. The rotors are actually really thick and nice. They are one piece too. Meaning not a bunch of glued in magnets. I know a lot of guys love to hate on Ultima Midwest and I know the darling of this forum is cycle electric. But Ultima makes great products at very low prices. Ive been inside a half dozen of their Shovels, a half dozen of their EVOs. Ive used their starters, cranks, rods, cases, stators, coils, ignitions, pipes ..
Im not saying they are superior to other brands (in some instances they are), Im just saying if money is tight they are probably a very good option.
My 22amp in my Shovel is about 25 years old and at minimum 75,000 miles into a Midwest kit. My Softail now has a 32 amp Ultima kit, my Road King has an Ultima 32 amp stator and super thick rotor. (originally a 38 amp factory)
If you want piece of mind and only the best will do, use cycle electric. If you need your money to last but you want a good charging system, Ultima is a strong option.
Last edited by Rains2much; Oct 2, 2024 at 05:30 AM.
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