Differnace in Stator Rotors
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 109
Likes: 1
From: Ethan, S.Dak.
Differnace in Stator Rotors
Ok, you all helped me determine my stator is bad (In a state of Stator confusion). Next question is can you tell me the differance between the standard rotor and the heavy duty? I see that the heavy duty rotor does not come with the spacers. Does the thickness of the heavy duty rotor not require any spacers? Or would it be better to get a system with a standard thickness rotor? Also when installing the rotor how do you know if spacers are needed? Sorry to keep beating this horse but want to make sure i get this right the first time. Have found a Ultima system with the heavy duty rotor at a good price, and after comparing the different systems just got in a state of "stator confusion again. Thanks again for all the help. Bully
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
I have a later spec high output stator, but original 1990 rotor. I don't know of any merit in changing that. I have seen photos of one which started to break up, but that is rare. The rotor has no electrics, it is simply a handful of permanent magnets set into a casting, entirely inanimate! That is until it starts spinning and the stator gets all excited and generates electrickery.
Dr Hess has our definitive test process for checking charging. Hopefully he will be along soon.
Dr Hess has our definitive test process for checking charging. Hopefully he will be along soon.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,372
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Keep your old rotor it's much better quality than the cheesy replacements most kits have in them and yes you have do all kind of shimming and aligning with those at your own cost for the shims .
I've heard arguments both ways but from personal experience upgrading old bikes I've never seen or managed to measure a difference in out put or life span between them .
I've heard arguments both ways but from personal experience upgrading old bikes I've never seen or managed to measure a difference in out put or life span between them .
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 210
Likes: 15
From: Belgium, Brabant
Hehe, I came to the exact same point with my bike.
So if you're bike isn't loaded with electric junk...do you get any benefits with replacing with a "high output" stator?...they usually are 'high priced" too...
And again...how do you know if you need spacers?
If you use Moco parts, is there any chance it's a plug and play situation?
Guess I'm in the same situation as Bully...
So if you're bike isn't loaded with electric junk...do you get any benefits with replacing with a "high output" stator?...they usually are 'high priced" too...
And again...how do you know if you need spacers?
If you use Moco parts, is there any chance it's a plug and play situation?
Guess I'm in the same situation as Bully...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,547
Likes: 7,153
From: Oxford, Nc
I replaced no less than 2 stators on my bike in the first 32,000 miles. Then when I lost the third at 57,000, I went with the newer "3 Phase" systems available from CompuFire and ( I believe,) Cycle Electric.
Now at 112,000 mles almost 3 years later and the system seems bulletproof. $400 complete from my Indy.
Now at 112,000 mles almost 3 years later and the system seems bulletproof. $400 complete from my Indy.
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Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,372
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Hehe, I came to the exact same point with my bike.
So if you're bike isn't loaded with electric junk...do you get any benefits with replacing with a "high output" stator?...they usually are 'high priced" too...
And again...how do you know if you need spacers?
If you use Moco parts, is there any chance it's a plug and play situation?
Guess I'm in the same situation as Bully...
So if you're bike isn't loaded with electric junk...do you get any benefits with replacing with a "high output" stator?...they usually are 'high priced" too...
And again...how do you know if you need spacers?
If you use Moco parts, is there any chance it's a plug and play situation?
Guess I'm in the same situation as Bully...
Going the bigger 32 amp stator does 2 things , better for the bike & battery and means you can get one anywhere if it fails no waiting to order one from who knows where .
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Jul 15, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
That is because "most everyone" isn't a proper mechanic and is talking BS....fix the rotor, check the output, if its fine its fine......never actually had to replace a regulator after a bad stator....people make things up because they think that one thing always leads to another when in reality it doesn't.
Regulators can die of their own accord but when a stator goes it usually stops giving any power to the regulator and therefore the regulator isn't doing any work and idelness won't kill it.
A massive spike in output can kill a regulator as it can't dump the heat produced by regulating quick enough but in my experience a fried stator doesn't produce a power spike...a dead regulator can and will do that though.
No doubt the two can fail together but its a myth to say that they should or must be replaced together.....save your money for cheap hookers and expensive Tequila.....
Regulators can die of their own accord but when a stator goes it usually stops giving any power to the regulator and therefore the regulator isn't doing any work and idelness won't kill it.
A massive spike in output can kill a regulator as it can't dump the heat produced by regulating quick enough but in my experience a fried stator doesn't produce a power spike...a dead regulator can and will do that though.
No doubt the two can fail together but its a myth to say that they should or must be replaced together.....save your money for cheap hookers and expensive Tequila.....
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,104
Likes: 51,372
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
That is because "most everyone" isn't a proper mechanic and is talking BS....fix the rotor, check the output, if its fine its fine......never actually had to replace a regulator after a bad stator....people make things up because they think that one thing always leads to another when in reality it doesn't.
Regulators can die of their own accord but when a stator goes it usually stops giving any power to the regulator and therefore the regulator isn't doing any work and idelness won't kill it.
A massive spike in output can kill a regulator as it can't dump the heat produced by regulating quick enough but in my experience a fried stator doesn't produce a power spike...a dead regulator can and will do that though.
No doubt the two can fail together but its a myth to say that they should or must be replaced together.....save your money for cheap hookers and expensive Tequila.....
Regulators can die of their own accord but when a stator goes it usually stops giving any power to the regulator and therefore the regulator isn't doing any work and idelness won't kill it.
A massive spike in output can kill a regulator as it can't dump the heat produced by regulating quick enough but in my experience a fried stator doesn't produce a power spike...a dead regulator can and will do that though.
No doubt the two can fail together but its a myth to say that they should or must be replaced together.....save your money for cheap hookers and expensive Tequila.....