Anti-seize
Changing the intake seals on my 93, noticed that there wasn't any anti-seize on the cap screw threads. I know that these the seals have been replace at least three times since new: (2 top ends, one leak). The last time they were done was in 2006.
Would putting a bit on anti-seize on the threads be okay? Or should they just be put in dry?
Reason for the replacement is a recent, rough idle, and occasional miss at 75mph. Going for parts today.
Thanks.
Would putting a bit on anti-seize on the threads be okay? Or should they just be put in dry?
Reason for the replacement is a recent, rough idle, and occasional miss at 75mph. Going for parts today.
Thanks.
Thanks. That's what I was thinking. Obviously the last three 'professional' wrenches, thought different.
Since it appears impossible to get a torque wrench in there, I guess I'll put the old German torque (guten tight) on them....
Since it appears impossible to get a torque wrench in there, I guess I'll put the old German torque (guten tight) on them....
BTW......."professional" wrenches often know more than internet Trolls


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Any reasons (other than what Spanners39 posted)? The one's I removed had noticeable corrosion on them.
Not putting anti-sieze on bolts that don't need it has nothing to do with pride in one's work.......Those particular bolts don't wanna be coming loose on you or you could blow the motor because it might lean out and fry the pistons. Not putting anti-sieze on certain bolts just means its being done according to how H-D make them and what the Factory Manual tells you to do.
Its like lifter block bolts...they are a **** to get out and that is because the manufacturer wants them to stay tight...bear in mind that these mnotors vibrate a lot, you can't feel it because of the rubber motor mounts but certain parts of an Evo motor could possibly shake themselves loose if the bolts were not put in dry or loctited.
As for Trolls.....I wasn't necessarily referring to you but you sometimes get people on these forums who chime in with an opinion that may seem like perfect sense to the layman but to the "professional" its hogwash and not based on a sound knowledge of working on Harleys....its good that people are enthusiastic about helping others with their bikes but you have to be able to distinguish fact from fiction and this is true of all the internet-based knowledge....regardless of the subject.....spend some time on Aviation Forums if you want some examples :-)
Its like lifter block bolts...they are a **** to get out and that is because the manufacturer wants them to stay tight...bear in mind that these mnotors vibrate a lot, you can't feel it because of the rubber motor mounts but certain parts of an Evo motor could possibly shake themselves loose if the bolts were not put in dry or loctited.
As for Trolls.....I wasn't necessarily referring to you but you sometimes get people on these forums who chime in with an opinion that may seem like perfect sense to the layman but to the "professional" its hogwash and not based on a sound knowledge of working on Harleys....its good that people are enthusiastic about helping others with their bikes but you have to be able to distinguish fact from fiction and this is true of all the internet-based knowledge....regardless of the subject.....spend some time on Aviation Forums if you want some examples :-)
I'm sure there are professionals that take pride in their work. Somewhere. They just haven't worked on my bike lately. Which is why I'm asking. And last time I looked, I didn't live anywhere near a bridge.
Any reasons (other than what Spanners39 posted)? The one's I removed had noticeable corrosion on them.
Any reasons (other than what Spanners39 posted)? The one's I removed had noticeable corrosion on them.
If you are seeing some corrosion, the plating could be wearing off. You can either replace the bolts with some OEM pcs, or apply a light coat of anti-seize to prevent any dissimilar metal adhesion down the road. Just my opinion.







