Lost and livid
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 43
From: NJ
a matchbook cover has worked for hundreds of us at the side of he road
Ds
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 12,696
From: South Carolina
A bad condensor will prevent it from running, the spark will just jump from one side of the points to the other, even when they open. This keeps the primary curciut energized, and with no voltage drop in the primary the secondary will produce no spark.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Nov 3, 2012 at 08:48 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
look into just replacing the ignition sensor with a Crane Hi4E series or a Dyna Ignition.
an electronic sensor makes more sense, is more accurate and can produce a hotter spark.
DO NOT crank the motor with the plug wires disconnected- that can blow the ignition system.
if looking for spark, put a plug in the cable boot and ground the wrench flats on the side of the plug , to the motor- look at the tip.
if the PO replaced the ignition with points, he may have mis matched the impedance of the coil(s)--- I'm guessing a clown made the bike run just enough so that he could sell it.
You need some experienced help
Mike
an electronic sensor makes more sense, is more accurate and can produce a hotter spark.
DO NOT crank the motor with the plug wires disconnected- that can blow the ignition system.
if looking for spark, put a plug in the cable boot and ground the wrench flats on the side of the plug , to the motor- look at the tip.
if the PO replaced the ignition with points, he may have mis matched the impedance of the coil(s)--- I'm guessing a clown made the bike run just enough so that he could sell it.
You need some experienced help
Mike
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 12,696
From: South Carolina
DO NOT crank the motor with the plug wires disconnected- that can blow the ignition system.
if looking for spark, put a plug in the cable boot and ground the wrench flats on the side of the plug , to the motor- look at the tip.
if the PO replaced the ignition with points, he may have mis matched the impedance of the coil(s)--- I'm guessing a clown made the bike run just enough so that he could sell it.
You need some experienced help
Mike
The stock coil will work fine with a points system.
But I agree, toss the points and install a proper modern electronic ignition system and get rid of the hassle.
If the ignition controller is still on the bike, all that is needed is the pickup.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 12,696
From: South Carolina
I had several friends switch thier systems over to points back in those days (never agreed with their thinking). They all used the original coils.
I have always thought electronic ignition systems were the best thing to happen to cars and bikes (after disc brakes)...
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Washington
Finnaly got some time to look into my bike and bury my head in the book.
Alright, i will have to save up for a new electronic ignition. Where do i find the ignition controller to know if i need to buy a new one?
So today, i found oil leaking out of the crankase vent hose... some of it white and frothy, also i have apparently lost enough oil to need to fill 1/4 qrt.
i checked the switch and coil. both are ok and will produce a spark. i'm buying a new point since i can't afford an electronic one right now and the shops are closed on sunday.
when i buy this electronic module should i get the dual ignition or the single? whats the best bang for buck and quality.. quallity is more important to me.
i'm not sure why it wasn't starting now, so i will try figuring out how to do a static timing and get the new points installed...will there be info on setting the advance too? (havn't looked into that part in my book) and see if anyone had anything to say about the crankcase vent.
Alright, i will have to save up for a new electronic ignition. Where do i find the ignition controller to know if i need to buy a new one?
So today, i found oil leaking out of the crankase vent hose... some of it white and frothy, also i have apparently lost enough oil to need to fill 1/4 qrt.
i checked the switch and coil. both are ok and will produce a spark. i'm buying a new point since i can't afford an electronic one right now and the shops are closed on sunday.
when i buy this electronic module should i get the dual ignition or the single? whats the best bang for buck and quality.. quallity is more important to me.
i'm not sure why it wasn't starting now, so i will try figuring out how to do a static timing and get the new points installed...will there be info on setting the advance too? (havn't looked into that part in my book) and see if anyone had anything to say about the crankcase vent.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,468
Likes: 12
From: Bluffton, South Carolina
White frothy stuff means oil has a little condensation in it and needs to be run on the highway for a while in order to get most of the condensation. It could also be from wasning the bike with a hose or pressure washer and getting some water in the vent hose.
Hopefully the bike was warm when you checked the oil or some of it could have leaked down into the engine an "sumped" it. Then when you start the engine and the oil gets pumped back up into the oil bag you are over full. This can block the vent in the tank and cause other problems.
The best bang for your ignition dollar is the Ultima ignitions. They are re-badged Dyna's and very reasonable.
John
Hopefully the bike was warm when you checked the oil or some of it could have leaked down into the engine an "sumped" it. Then when you start the engine and the oil gets pumped back up into the oil bag you are over full. This can block the vent in the tank and cause other problems.
The best bang for your ignition dollar is the Ultima ignitions. They are re-badged Dyna's and very reasonable.
John
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Washington
White frothy stuff means oil has a little condensation in it and needs to be run on the highway for a while in order to get most of the condensation. It could also be from wasning the bike with a hose or pressure washer and getting some water in the vent hose.
Hopefully the bike was warm when you checked the oil or some of it could have leaked down into the engine an "sumped" it. Then when you start the engine and the oil gets pumped back up into the oil bag you are over full. This can block the vent in the tank and cause other problems.
The best bang for your ignition dollar is the Ultima ignitions. They are re-badged Dyna's and very reasonable.
John
Hopefully the bike was warm when you checked the oil or some of it could have leaked down into the engine an "sumped" it. Then when you start the engine and the oil gets pumped back up into the oil bag you are over full. This can block the vent in the tank and cause other problems.
The best bang for your ignition dollar is the Ultima ignitions. They are re-badged Dyna's and very reasonable.
John
yeah i put more oil in.. and now it makes a gurgling sound when i was moving the engine in 5th to try and align for points... so i should just drain some of it then?
i will check out ultima. what about the dual vs. single ignition? i get the concept of having the spark happen at hte proper itme but is it worth the tuning and finagling?