Ignition problem? Will not fire
Yes the filings are ground up magnet. I wish I could have just replaced the magnets because the module tests fine. I bought a new 2Ki module this afternoon for 190 and a new rotor for 9 with free shipping.
I'm debating splicing the new module into the existing wiring instead of rewiring everything.
I'm debating splicing the new module into the existing wiring instead of rewiring everything.
Update:
I put on the new module and rotor today and once I found TDC it fired right up. The first time I found TDC, it didn't leave me enough movement in the module to use the bolt holes. I spun the motor around a full rotation to the next time it hit TDC and then it worked. I didn't use the VOES or tach wire so it was a simple 3 wire hookup to the coil and done.
Tip for the day: If you need to replace the rubber bushings for your gas tank brackets, Tractor Supply has grommets that fit perfectly with a little trimming. About a dollar a piece.
I put on the new module and rotor today and once I found TDC it fired right up. The first time I found TDC, it didn't leave me enough movement in the module to use the bolt holes. I spun the motor around a full rotation to the next time it hit TDC and then it worked. I didn't use the VOES or tach wire so it was a simple 3 wire hookup to the coil and done.
Tip for the day: If you need to replace the rubber bushings for your gas tank brackets, Tractor Supply has grommets that fit perfectly with a little trimming. About a dollar a piece.
On a four stroke you only get a firing impulse every other TDC.
Is VOES really worthwhile to have? (my bike was EFI, converted to carb). I never hooked up a VOES switch (was extra cost @ the time when I did the conversion...didnt have the extra $ for the sensor). AFAIK, with my dyna ignition, all VOES does is ramp the timing faster (or slower) based on vacuum. I can accomplish the same thing by either grounding the VOES wire, or leaving it disconnected (for either slow ramp or fast ramp)







