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After messing with it some more, I'm not getting any voltage readings on the coil between the positive and negatives with the bike turning over. This is with and without the jumper lead directly from the battery. It's sounding to me like the ignition module is broken?
Your module could be pulling down the 12V at the coil...Looks like you covered all the other bases.
Can't figure out hour to quote a quote but to Spanners39, all my knowledge about the VOES comes from only my experience and findings. What I found in a lot of the installation instructions for different manufactures was a warning of what causes heat related failures with ignitions and the VOES is a culprit. I got the Daytona twintec model 1005 a and right on page one on the front it goes over "Heat Related Failures." Per Daytona " with the VOES switch removed or non functional, all street engines require vacum advance. Without vacum advance at idle or partial throttle, thermodynamic efficiency is reduced and engine temperatures increase significantly." So that's where I learned about that. My ignition was set up to run with the voes but i did not know that the voes was non functional till i tested it. I know she can run with the VOES not hooked up, I've done it and kept buying modules. Now that I fixed the VOES, I have not had a problem in 10,000 miles, one trip to Sturgis from CA and picked up 8 miles/gallon so I just assumed it was all relative. Is it correct?...I don't know..I make a better life saver than a bike doctor.
Can't figure out hour to quote a quote but to Spanners39, all my knowledge about the VOES comes from only my experience and findings. What I found in a lot of the installation instructions for different manufactures was a warning of what causes heat related failures with ignitions and the VOES is a culprit. I got the Daytona twintec model 1005 a and right on page one on the front it goes over "Heat Related Failures." Per Daytona " with the VOES switch removed or non functional, all street engines require vacum advance. Without vacum advance at idle or partial throttle, thermodynamic efficiency is reduced and engine temperatures increase significantly." So that's where I learned about that. My ignition was set up to run with the voes but i did not know that the voes was non functional till i tested it. I know she can run with the VOES not hooked up, I've done it and kept buying modules. Now that I fixed the VOES, I have not had a problem in 10,000 miles, one trip to Sturgis from CA and picked up 8 miles/gallon so I just assumed it was all relative. Is it correct?...I don't know..I make a better life saver than a bike doctor.
There are a lot of statements in USA based instructions that are there to prevent litigation rather than to educate the owner.......
See if you can borrow an ignition module to swap out.
Doing that pinned down my issue to the ignition module which I updated with the better performing Crane HI4E.
I had gone through every single item replacing the coil and the cam sensor. Soon as I put in a borrowed module it ran perfect. I upgraded it and have been very pleased with the improvements.
Had very similar situation, cranked well, fuel there but no matter what no spark at the plugs . Check voes though mine is a cursed 89 softail which is a world of its own but. Next coil. Nothing. Ended up being dry solder on the stop start on off. Now this was after fitting a new mikuni never run. Check that wiring!! Could save coin. And years off your life?
I pulled out the module this morning and flipped it over. I can't remember what these are supposed to look like on the back, but I doubt it's supposed to look like this:
Reckon this is my problem?
Also, I noticed I can rotate my rotor cup by finger. The bolt that runs through it isn't tight so that's another problem. I'm not sure which came first, the rotor cup coming loose or the module magnets disintegrating.
Last edited by deuce40s; Nov 30, 2012 at 11:54 AM.
I just ran up to the dealer to see if they had a module I could look at. Of course they don't have any in stock.
As you can barely see in the picture, the magnet on the right is completely closing the gap that the rotor cup needs to pass through. The other gap is flush all the way through. I'm not sure if the magnets are supposed to be protruding into the gap at all.
Either way, the reason the rotor was spinning freely is because the indexing tab broke off. There's no way for it to stay timed. I'm not sure what caused what, but both are broken and will have to be replaced.
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