The bike has a 96" Ultima with Ultima (Dyna 2000I? non-programmable) Single Fire Ignition. I cannot get it to crank. I was riding fine yesterday and tried to ride today but it won't start. It has not given any hint of wanting to fire today, not even a pop.

There is fuel and the engine turns over easily with the starter. I can't get a spark with the plugs grounded to the frame. I started by putting new plugs in it because I figured it's about time anyway. That didn't work so I put on a spare single fire coil and tried, no luck.

When I first hit the starter I am reading 3V on the center pin of the coil and then the volts drop to zero as the engine is still turning over. Is this normal? I ran a wire directly to the center pin from the positive on the battery to see if this made a difference but it did not.

The ignition module shows the red light on for status if that helps.

 

After messing with it some more, I'm not getting any voltage readings on the coil between the positive and negatives with the bike turning over. This is with and without the jumper lead directly from the battery. It's sounding to me like the ignition module is broken?

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. What type of exhaust do you run??? If the pipe is close to the nosecone it will cook the module eventually.
John

 

I remember a whike back I had my ultima ignition out and put it back in like normal and could get it to fire and some how I had hit the kill switch, turned it back on and away it went.

 

It wasn't the Kill switch was it? Been there, done that.

 

No it isn't the kill switch. The motor won't turn over if the switch is off.

 

Now that you say that I think I just couldn't get the ignition light to come on for the just off setup.

 

Had similar problems and found that the culprit was a VOES switch that was not working. I would go through all the trouble shoots, jump wires and such then replace the ignition. Run great for a while but with a bad VOES, your motor will run inefficient and hot enough to cook the electronics in the module.

 

Just need to flip the dipswitch to no voes and that will eliminate that step.

 

Where do you get that piece of information from?....VOES just switches advance curves, it won't fry anything. Its the same as manually switching curves on an aftermarket system.

If it goes scik it will just leave you on one or the other advance curve.

Some people remove the VOES and either ground the violet wire or leave it disconnected, depending on which advance curve they want to run.

I have a Shovelhead here that is being run in with the wire disconnected and will have it grounded once run in....it has no VOES and I wish my TC was as smooth and torquey as the Shovel is right now.