Have you checked the float height and adjusted as per my previous post?

 

I second recheck float height and check for dirt. Fuel line going away and deteriorating?

previous post from Spanner.
"Reset the float again to .450 (11.5mm) at 18 degrees. And what do ya know. Runs and idles perfect. Thanks Spanners."

edit. btw I never shut my gas off either.

 

I guess I'm having a brain fart. How do you adjust the float level on these? There doesn't seem to be adjustable parts. The tab that pushes on the float needle is not adjustable, the needle just hangs there. Where/how do you adjust it?

 

With the carb off hold it at 18degree angle and take measurement. Depending on float type set it to proper height. Adjusting is just bending the metal "tang" on the float. Maybe someone can describe it better. I guess you don't have a factory manual? Maybe someone has a scan of it.

 

OK, I found it in the manual, I wasn't looking in the right place. I was just looking at the diagram 4-48 in my shop manual, and it shows the VOV hose routing. I seem to be missing a piece of that assembly! My VOES hose goes directly to the carb, and the overflow goes right to the ground. What is that VOV? I've never had it, never been a problem (that I know of). What does that thing do? Anyway, my book says 0.725-0.730". I'll look at it tomorrow, I'm about to lose my light. But that hasn't changed, so I don't know why it would be off now, except the needle changed, I guess that could do it.

 

the VOES doesn't have anything to do with why your carb is overflowing... the VOES hose should go directly to your carb... the VOES basically regulates the ignition advance

these first generation CV carbs are notorious, these days, for the problem you're having...we've all been there... i messed around with mine for weeks before finally fixing it... and even on occassion it will overflow a tad, which is normal...but nothing like it was

anyway, it's like spanner had suggested...you gotta adjust the float level even a tad beyond spec...plus, you have to clean out that float valve seat and polish up the four 'blades' on the float valve itself...it is getting stuck... and especially with the methanol rich gas that's out there now, the rubber will deteriorate quicker and will leave a sticky black residue in all your passages

also, an inline filter will help with things if you have any fine crud in your tank.... a cheap one from autozone with the paper element works good

 

I'm just tossing it out there cause you never know. I have had floats in the past get a small hole and taking on gas and no longer floating at the right level. May want to make sure your float is empty.

 

Yup, I checked that mikey. I've had "water-logged" floats before on jap bikes before. I stuck it in a bowl of water and it floated fine, water line about half way up.
js, I run ethanol free gas, at least that's what he claims, one station I happen to go by every day. As for the VOES, I know it doesn't have anything to do with it, but i was just talking out loud! When I first got this bike, it had the non-CV carb on it. That tank was real rusty from sitting empty for 4 years. I cleaned and lined the tank and got the cv at a swap meet, it's off an '89 Sportster. It's been 7 years. It's served me well, I'm just now running into problems. It needed to be gone thru, and I guess I just stirred things up. I thought about putting in an in-line filter years ago, don't know what ever happened to that idea, it never happened! I'll get it right.....

 

It sounds like the float is "water logged" just because it floats doesn't mean it's good. go buy some pot scales I mean float scales follow the instructions buy a new float weigh the old one compared to the new if it's heaver it's bad. install the new float with a new needle. and check to make sure your gas tank is venting

 

By setting the float height a tad over the spec you end up with a slightly lower fuel level in the bowl and that often cures it.