I just re-wired my added relay to neaten up the wiring and hide it better. I had just thrown it on the first time in a hurry to test the theory. Since I know it works and I have been going through many wiring diagrams since, I hooked it up slightly differently than the original version. The original version outlined in the first post of this topic is still by far the quickest, easiest way to do it, especially for those not too experienced with automotive wiring or crimp-on connectors. For those of you with more experience in wiring, relays and crimping, read on. I got rid of about 2-1/2 more feet of wiring this way...

First I removed the wire I had put between new relay 87 and the solenoid, then I removed the wire I had added between the original solenoid wire at the starter and the new relay's 85. I plugged the original solenoid wire back into the solenoid like stock. This removed the most wire from my first version due to the location I had mounted the new relay.

Next I removed the wire I had added from the battery positive post to the new relay's 30. At this point, the only connection left on the new relay is the ground connected to tab 86, and the old relay is fully connected like stock, so we are basically starting fresh.

I took a 14 gauge wire, about 6 inches long with a 20 amp fuse and crimped a flat, insulated female blade connector on one end and a small ring terminal on the other end. I plugged the flat blade onto the new relay's 30 tab and put the ring terminal on the main circuit breaker's single main feed that comes from the heavy lug on the starter.

This next step has several different ways you can do it. You can get all fancy and carefully remove the flat female blade connector from the old relay's socket position 87, then buy a new one from the parts department to add a wire, or do it the way I just did it:

I isolated the wire from the old relay's 87 tab that runs to the solenoid. About 5 inches or so from the old relay's socket, I cut the wire and crimped on an insulated flat female blade connector to each end. The side that runs from the relay I plugged onto tab 85 on the new relay. The side that runs to the solenoid I plugged onto the new relay's 87 tab.

That's it. I tucked the new relay out of the way under the old one and put the side cover back on. I was also able to re install the chrome starter cover which I had not been able to do yet(I left it off in case I had to poke the solenoid again, until I was sure the problem was fixed). Total wire added this way: about 6 inches of fused 14 gauge between the circuit breaker and the new relay and about 6 inches of 14 gauge between the new relay and the ground.

 

I understand that such a relay failure would be unlikely, but I felt I must mention it as a possibility. Of course, if your fuse is accessible, you could just pull the fuse.

 

The wire to the solenoid should be easily reached no matter what type of bike. Its a good point that everyone should be aware of. Of course the original starter relay could also stick as well, whether you added another one or not. That's why the 20 amp fuse feeding a 30 amp capable relay.

 

I just bought some the other day and if I remember correctly they are part # 9937.

 

The original start relay on my `89 Softail stuck in the energized position, But it released after about 30 seconds, the bike was fairly new when this happened.

There was a recall on the `89 Softails, which replaced the relay and also relocated it in a position more out of the weather.

That relay that was installed under the recall is still working fine after about 22 years.

 

I will have the 2nd relay installed on my 1991 FLT tomorrow and I will post a picture.

 

Just got the 2nd relay installed on my 1991 FLT yesterday, works great. Here is a photo. I bolted second relay to top of existing circuit breaker post and it all fits behind side cover.

 

Nicely done.

 

Y'all are adding stuff?

If you are married to a relay, and there is nothing wrong with that, especially if you are using your stock handlebar switch, instead of adding a relay do the larger wire trick the OP wrote about. You could also physically move the relay closer to the solenoid as the shorter run will cause less IR drop.

I have an '87 with the old style starter and solenoid. Back in about 1981 I rewired my 1978 Shovel, ditching the starter relay completely. When I got this '87, I ditched its relay, too. A simple spring return toggle switch wired directly to the solenoid does the job. I'm actually using the same 31 year old toggle switch that I installed on the Shovel.

Finally, be glad you don't have a 2007 Nightster (my "fun" bike). The design of the wiring harness allows water to follow the wires and get to the relays. The relay bayonets and the relay base sockets corrode, even with a heavy application of dielectric grease.

 

The larger wire only works on certain models, but dressers are a little more integrated in their approach to the relay. The original relay is already mounted right behind the starter, between the starter and the battery. The problem is the wiring that goes well out of the way to make the handlebar switches work the way intended. Adding the second relay keeps the original functionality of the switches while still lowering IR a bunch. The simple spring return toggle switch is a simple option, but it is the electrical equivalent of the solenoid push button cover. Sure it would work, but adding a second relay(or the heavier wire for soft tails) keeps everything looking and working like stock, no reaching under your leg to push a button or flip a switch.