CVP Carb tune/rebuild kit and Pingel Petcock install
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 601
Likes: 6
From: Aruba
Would my stock pipes be a better pipe at this point since the current ones have little to no baffles in them? They aren't quite drag pipes as they have ridges down the sides, but no complete baffles. I have no idea what brand they are.
What is a good way to adjust the float in the carb?
What is a good way to clean out the mixture circuit, compressed air?
Part of the ignition sensor in the gear case cone melted after my ride on Tuesday where we were blasting down the road for hours at 60+. I was feeling a little hot on my thighs, but I guess the bike was getting pretty warm. Any suggestions on a good replacement for the ignition system?
What is a good way to adjust the float in the carb?
What is a good way to clean out the mixture circuit, compressed air?
Part of the ignition sensor in the gear case cone melted after my ride on Tuesday where we were blasting down the road for hours at 60+. I was feeling a little hot on my thighs, but I guess the bike was getting pretty warm. Any suggestions on a good replacement for the ignition system?
Adjusting the float in the carb involves setting it on a flat, level surface on the manifold side so that the float is hanging straight down, Next, tilt the carb to 15 - 20 degrees and then measure from the gasket surface of the float bowl to the outside (bottom) edge of the float. Reading should be 10.5 - 11.5 mm. If not, bend the tab on the float and repeat. I have a piece of thin paperboard that I cut at this angle which I keep in my carb tuning box just for this purpose.
I use my scuba tanks to blow out everything when rebuilding carbs. 3000 psi. Just don't try to use canned air made for blowing out computer keyboards. You need more air pressure than that.
A nose cone is a terrible place to put electronics. All the fancy units that have the dip switches, dials, etc. for adjusting the curve on the pickup seem to fail fairly regularly because it's just too hot in the cone. You're better off using a standard pickup and then if you want to use a programmable, get one with a separate box that goes under the tank, seat, etc. like the Dyna 2000 or similar.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: NW FL
Wide open pipes work great above 3000 rpm. The issue with them is that they have a dead spot which you can see on a dyno and a lot of times feel on the road between around 2000 and 3000 rpm, give or take.
Adjusting the float in the carb involves setting it on a flat, level surface on the manifold side so that the float is hanging straight down, Next, tilt the carb to 15 - 20 degrees and then measure from the gasket surface of the float bowl to the outside (bottom) edge of the float. Reading should be 10.5 - 11.5 mm. If not, bend the tab on the float and repeat. I have a piece of thin paperboard that I cut at this angle which I keep in my carb tuning box just for this purpose.
I use my scuba tanks to blow out everything when rebuilding carbs. 3000 psi. Just don't try to use canned air made for blowing out computer keyboards. You need more air pressure than that.
A nose cone is a terrible place to put electronics. All the fancy units that have the dip switches, dials, etc. for adjusting the curve on the pickup seem to fail fairly regularly because it's just too hot in the cone. You're better off using a standard pickup and then if you want to use a programmable, get one with a separate box that goes under the tank, seat, etc. like the Dyna 2000 or similar.
Adjusting the float in the carb involves setting it on a flat, level surface on the manifold side so that the float is hanging straight down, Next, tilt the carb to 15 - 20 degrees and then measure from the gasket surface of the float bowl to the outside (bottom) edge of the float. Reading should be 10.5 - 11.5 mm. If not, bend the tab on the float and repeat. I have a piece of thin paperboard that I cut at this angle which I keep in my carb tuning box just for this purpose.
I use my scuba tanks to blow out everything when rebuilding carbs. 3000 psi. Just don't try to use canned air made for blowing out computer keyboards. You need more air pressure than that.
A nose cone is a terrible place to put electronics. All the fancy units that have the dip switches, dials, etc. for adjusting the curve on the pickup seem to fail fairly regularly because it's just too hot in the cone. You're better off using a standard pickup and then if you want to use a programmable, get one with a separate box that goes under the tank, seat, etc. like the Dyna 2000 or similar.
Thanks for the info. I slapped on the stock pipes yesterday and didn't notice any leaking today, we'll see how it does over the next few days. I've got an air compressor, so I'll pull the carb this weekend and adjust the float and blow it out again.
Looking at the dyna 2000 ignition, I think I already have that type of ignition. I have a screaming eagle ignition module on my frame, as well as an ignition coil. The dyna website talks about plugging into the existing pickup harness, so I suppose that is what I melted part of. Guess I just need to get another stock pickup and probably have the timing re-done.
Last edited by dz1087; Mar 28, 2013 at 09:09 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: NW FL
So after switching to my stock pipes, I still have some reversion going on. Seems to be worst at higher rpms. Still smells of gas when I'm rolling over 1/2 open throttle.
Any thoughts on this anyone? I still have not adjusted the float bowl, think that would help?
Any thoughts on this anyone? I still have not adjusted the float bowl, think that would help?
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