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Ok, just bought my 98 FLHTC in Sept and it had no heel shifter on it. Wife buys me one for Christmas. I put in on this spring and tighten it down real good. Last week I'm on the freeway, and I go to downshift, and nothing. I look down and the shifter is hanging by a thread between the floorboard and primary cover. Later I retighten it to the spline and about an hour later I look down and it has vibrated out along the spline. I know the allen bolt is tight but it wants to wiggle along the spline. My worry is it's going to strip the spline. Is there a long term solution to this problem?
I had a similar problem with my 1992 FLHTCU ... I replaced the shifter arm the first time and after a short time it was loose on the shaft. During a maintenance service I replaced the shifter arm shifter shaft #26, the shaft bushings #27 and both shifter arms #31 and #25. If was any easy repair and of course torque all bolts to spec along with a bit of Blue Loc-Tite and it'll be good as new.
Ok, just bought my 98 FLHTC in Sept and it had no heel shifter on it. Wife buys me one for Christmas. I put in on this spring and tighten it down real good. Last week I'm on the freeway, and I go to downshift, and nothing. I look down and the shifter is hanging by a thread between the floorboard and primary cover. Later I retighten it to the spline and about an hour later I look down and it has vibrated out along the spline. I know the allen bolt is tight but it wants to wiggle along the spline. My worry is it's going to strip the spline. Is there a long term solution to this problem?
Have had the same problem and it is very annoying. Even with the bolt very tight the shifter arm can still come loose. The problem seems to be with the slot on the arm that the bolt goes through. It doesnt compress enough to tighten the slot and the arm is probably made of high tensile steel with little movement ie. when tightening. There could be a problem with wear on the shaft splines. There is a replacement arm which comes in 2 pieces and has 2 bolts much like a conrod. It is available in the US but I cant remember who stocks it. It is expensive at $300.
The other solution (temporary)which I used,is too measure the distance from the end outer face of the shifter arm to the inside of the inner crancase. Araldite(or similar) a small circular shaped block of wood or hard rubber to the crankcase between the shifter. This should stop endplay and your shift arm coming adrift. Temporary to save $$$s.
I have often thought that a hole drilled through the screwed part of the shaft with a nut & bolt either side ,rather than a bolt only set up, will possibly be stronger. I am not sure though and I am sure many on the
forum with more knowledge than me will contribue. Bungo.
Same problem on my 93 flhtc. When the very first shifter arm splines get stripped, they seem to be screwing up the shifter shaft splines, so even if they look alright, they'll eventually strip even the brand new arm. You hafta replace the shaft as well when you get the new arms.
Mine fell off also. Went back and picked it up off the road. The bolt was tight as a bitch. Finally got the bolt loose and put some blue locktite on the splines,tightened it up and let it set up over night. So far so good.,
Mine fell off also. Went back and picked it up off the road. The bolt was tight as a bitch. Finally got the bolt loose and put some blue locktite on the splines,tightened it up and let it set up over night. So far so good.,
I just blue loctited the whole thing last night. I'll watch it closely. Thanks all.
I just blue loctited the whole thing last night. I'll watch it closely. Thanks all.
Just remembered...the Lever I described is a Buehler "better lever".
It costs $220 + shipping. I notice that many evo owners change the standard lever fixing bolt to a Hex grade 8. That will definitely allow you to torque down a bit easier/more with a socket & extension. Not sure if you should exceed HD Torque specs for this though. Bungo.
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