Primary cover off, now what?
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Well, here is where I'm at (of course there's a pic!):
Obviously, the compensator nut needs to come off (what size is that thing?), primary chain (looks like it needs a serious adjustment, and sprocket. Then what? Remember, I'm doing all this sans manual (have one ordered, waiting) and relying on the forum and google, so please be nice.
So far, everything has been pretty obvious and fairly simple, but this stage of the teardown seems like it may have specific (and crucial) procedures, and I don't wanna F anything up. Should I wait for the manual to come in?
As a side note, is there supposed to be a lot of "wiggle" in the drive gear on the starter? Seems a little "sloppy" to me (another pic!):
Obviously, the compensator nut needs to come off (what size is that thing?), primary chain (looks like it needs a serious adjustment, and sprocket. Then what? Remember, I'm doing all this sans manual (have one ordered, waiting) and relying on the forum and google, so please be nice.
So far, everything has been pretty obvious and fairly simple, but this stage of the teardown seems like it may have specific (and crucial) procedures, and I don't wanna F anything up. Should I wait for the manual to come in?
As a side note, is there supposed to be a lot of "wiggle" in the drive gear on the starter? Seems a little "sloppy" to me (another pic!):
If you do want to pull your clutch hub and engine sprocket I think on yours the clutch hub is 1 1/8".
I would do it as Dr. Hess suggests and just pull the sprocket nut off and leave the rest there.
As for bracing don't bother with one of those Teflon stair things. Go to Home Depot and get you some bar stock and cut it to fit between the gears.
You won't put any extra stress on your chain that way.
You have to brace the gears before removing the nuts.
Unless you are a glutton for punishment use an impact to remove the nut.
I have done it without an impact but don't recommend it.
You won't hurt anything using an impact to take it apart.
If you haven't received the manual when you start reassembly let us know and we can go from there.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
I use a 4 foot bar on the end of an old torque wrench to undo the crank nut. Its 160 ft/lbs so takes a bit of pressure. I always use the delrin block to jam the chain because it fits and it works. Spray it orange so you don't leave it in there by mistake.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Well my first attempt has failed. My compressor is busted so impact is not an option. Tried a 2 foot breaker and the sanding block. Stood on it and it wouldn't budge, mangled the sanding block.
Next attempt gonna get a cheater bar, fab a block out of a cutting board (or cut some bar stock?), and heat up the comp nut w/ my trusty old MAPP torch. You guys weren't kidding when you said the breaker method is a biotch!
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
Funny that you would suggest that. In lieu of a delrin block, I was going to fab a poly step wedge out of the gf's old cutting board, but she threw it away (I asked her why she got rid of a perfectly good crank block tool, she seemed confused). Then I thought of what else I had already, sanding block! Then I read your post, lol.
Well my first attempt has failed. My compressor is busted so impact is not an option. Tried a 2 foot breaker and the sanding block. Stood on it and it wouldn't budge, mangled the sanding block.
Next attempt gonna get a cheater bar, fab a block out of a cutting board (or cut some bar stock?), and heat up the comp nut w/ my trusty old MAPP torch. You guys weren't kidding when you said the breaker method is a biotch!
Well my first attempt has failed. My compressor is busted so impact is not an option. Tried a 2 foot breaker and the sanding block. Stood on it and it wouldn't budge, mangled the sanding block.
Next attempt gonna get a cheater bar, fab a block out of a cutting board (or cut some bar stock?), and heat up the comp nut w/ my trusty old MAPP torch. You guys weren't kidding when you said the breaker method is a biotch!
4 - 5 foot length of pipe and it is still a pain in the ***.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Funny that you would suggest that. In lieu of a delrin block, I was going to fab a poly step wedge out of the gf's old cutting board, but she threw it away (I asked her why she got rid of a perfectly good crank block tool, she seemed confused). Then I thought of what else I had already, sanding block! Then I read your post, lol.
Well my first attempt has failed. My compressor is busted so impact is not an option. Tried a 2 foot breaker and the sanding block. Stood on it and it wouldn't budge, mangled the sanding block.
Next attempt gonna get a cheater bar, fab a block out of a cutting board (or cut some bar stock?), and heat up the comp nut w/ my trusty old MAPP torch. You guys weren't kidding when you said the breaker method is a biotch!
Well my first attempt has failed. My compressor is busted so impact is not an option. Tried a 2 foot breaker and the sanding block. Stood on it and it wouldn't budge, mangled the sanding block.
Next attempt gonna get a cheater bar, fab a block out of a cutting board (or cut some bar stock?), and heat up the comp nut w/ my trusty old MAPP torch. You guys weren't kidding when you said the breaker method is a biotch!
Try an aluminium wedge and a longer bar.....
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,736
Likes: 1,524
From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
I have done it with a big steel nut in the past but I wouldn't tell other people to do it like that as you have to be very careful.