Making a list, checking it twice. ...
Where was it?
1. Heads have been shaved, thereby necessitating the need for something shorter.
2. Jugs have had material removed, therefore, stock ones will be incorrect as stated above.
3. Block / Engine case has had material removed where the jugs mount, again, changing the distance between the cam shaft and the rocker arm, as stated in 1 & 2
4. If work is being done such as changing the cam and you don't want to take apart the top end, the stock pushrods can be cut with bolt cutters to be removed and adjustable ones installed in their place.
5. You are building a high performance engine that will rev high often, and stronger pushrods such as chromoly will be needed, then chromoly pushrods usually are adjustable type.
6. If your engine previously had excessive valve train noise, the adjustable pushrods could potentially help, but it would be more of a bandaid since the noise is probably caused by collapsed lifters or some other problem leading to slack in the valve train.
If you reuse your pushrods, roll them on a completely flat surface to check them for straightness. Even new ones can sometimes have a bow in them. Think of it like checking a pool cue.
If you get adjustable ones, you will usually see ordinary steel, aluminum, and chromoly. Chromoly is the strongest while aluminum is the lightest.
Finally, when I was gathering the parts for my upcoming build, I ended up deciding on chromoly adjustable push rods. I found there were two types. One type was adjustable and the other said adjustable time saver, or some other marketing term. I ultimately ended up getting a decent deal on time saver chromoly adjustable push rods from Crane Cams. I looked at the Andrews, but there was too much of a price difference without being able to see a real difference in quality/strength, etc. They are still in the box so I can't comment how good they are yet. My build starts soon. I have all the parts. It is just a matter of deciding when.
Regarding the lifters. I almost decided to reuse mine, but I have 29,000 miles, the last 10,000 of which I put on myself. Cost is what it ultimately came down to for me. After searching around, I found a good set of lifters for a price that didn't make me feel like a chump for buying them. I picked up crane cam big axle lifters off of ebay. Again, still in the box, waiting for the right time to get it done.
On Andrews website, I remember reading a blurb on one of their cam installation instructions stating that certain cams required some clearancing before being installed. I forgot exactly what it said because the cam I am using was not one they listed that required clearancing. My cam choices came down to EV13, EV23, and EV27. My decision was ultimately EV13 because of the weight of my bike, my own body weight, and the style and type of riding I do. I really could have went with the EV23, but the EV13 had a little more bottom end to help with the weight factor. Many people run EV27 and are very happy with it, so you probably can't go wrong with any of these three cams. The only way you can really go wrong is if you choose a radical cam that is made for the absolute highest horsepower number that occurs at an astronomical RPM. Again, my parts are in a box, so I don't have the results to say this is a good recipe or not, or this could have been better or not etc.
Last edited by Prot; Sep 29, 2013 at 12:31 PM.
I would think with it's shorter duration/higher lift, the 23 would have more low rpm torque than the 13, although both are good torque cams.
Mine won't be going over 5k or getting compression work, so the high duration/lift cams aren't for me, plus I would like to get more than 60k out of my build.

Good luck with your build, interested in your results, take it easy...
Last edited by HarDlife; Sep 29, 2013 at 01:02 PM.
Apparently the lifters absorb the extra length. Haven't tried it myself but he says its fine.
What the EVO needs is an iginition module that will let it rev 'above' what the factory originally set. Horsepower comes on at higher RPM, were torque is at the lower end. On occasion, I like to 'wind it up'. Trust me, with a decent cam and some free flowing in/out, you will have a whole new bike.
My experience is that with only an aftermarket cam/intake/exhaust/ignition, you are looking at dyno numbers in the 80hp/80tq range. Bump the compression ratio above the pathetic OEM, and you can raise the HP numbers to 90.
Now that will put a smile on your face, and not reduce the longevity of the engine appreciatively.
Honestly, it doesn't take a bunch of $$$ to make an EVO run good. I get 80/80 numbers on the dyno with cam/ignition/AC/exhaust and without the compression increase. And my bike suits my riding style just fine with that.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
What the EVO needs is an iginition module that will let it rev 'above' what the factory originally set. Horsepower comes on at higher RPM, were torque is at the lower end. On occasion, I like to 'wind it up'. Trust me, with a decent cam and some free flowing in/out, you will have a whole new bike.
My experience is that with only an aftermarket cam/intake/exhaust/ignition, you are looking at dyno numbers in the 80hp/80tq range. Bump the compression ratio above the pathetic OEM, and you can raise the HP numbers to 90.
Now that will put a smile on your face, and not reduce the longevity of the engine appreciatively.
Honestly, it doesn't take a bunch of $$$ to make an EVO run good. I get 80/80 numbers on the dyno with cam/ignition/AC/exhaust and without the compression increase. And my bike suits my riding style just fine with that.









