You are probably OK. The motion you described and show would be normal as you show it since the axle is not holding it together. Appears that someone used two different color greases..no big deal, there is green, red , black and even grease colors out there. Just clean them up in paint thinner or kerosine and check them for pits, rust or unusual wear...the roller pins will look like the have a crown if the were run too loose. If OK , put it back together torquing it without the seals. Check the endplay with a dial indicator mounted to rotor to insure to yourself end play is correct. If it's way off I would replace bearings. What ever it is, make sure it's in tolerance by correct shimming. Then pull back apart, pack bearing and replace with new seals. PS. do you know what I am talking about when I talk about using a dial indicator? Not too many people would. No offence ment..just trying to help out..

 

The end play can be checked with the wheel off the bike, it is the easiest way to do it.

Assemble the axle to the bearing, use spacers to take up the extra space on the axle (since the axle is not in the swingarm).

Put the wheel on a support, such as a plastic bucket.

Put the mag base onto the brake disk, and set up the dial indicator onto the end of the axle and move the axle up and down while tightening the axle nut.

If the axle gets snug while tightening the nut, stop, and install a longer spacer, or add shims. Do not torque the nut if the axle has no movement.

Once the nut is torqued you can measure the axle end play by moving the axle up and down.

After you have the end play set you can remove and pack the bearings, install the seals and you are good to go until the next tire change.

 

I could be wrong here,but the OP is just wanting to replace the bearings and races not put a new wheel on...Wouldn't the spacer and shims if any(end play) have been set before the bike left the factory...
Like Spanners said earlier,just weld a bead around the race and it will practically fall out,then freeze the race and heat the wheel hub and the new race will go in easily too,you can use a socket the same outside diameter as the race to make sure it's home...Pack the bearing install torque the wheel down and you should be good to go...Spacers and shims go behind the shoulder the race seats on doesn't it??

 

Any time bearings are replaced the end play must be checked.

When re packing bearings that were already installed, it is not necessary, as long as you are confident that the correct end play was set when the bearings were originally installed.

 

I didn't want to speak up, but that is exactly what I did when I changed my wheel bearings a couple of months ago, and then rechecked the clearance after I put the wheel back on.

 

Play is measured at the brake rotor with the wheel in the bike (seals fitted) and should be 2 - 6 thou. That white grease is waterpump grease and it was quite common to find in wheel bearings when I was a wrench in the UK...usually we were in the bearings because they were stuffed due to the shitty grease that had been used.

 

tony, u own that website?

 

Fixed it for ya...

 

I tend to ignore the Harley manual on wheel bearings anyhow, because it just goes against basic engineering principles I have used in industry all my life.

I heat the wheel hub with a propane torch (el cheapo throwaway gas bottle type) until the old race either falls out or can be pushed out gently with a metal rod etc.
Then put in the frozen new race (in the freezer over night) which will either fall in or need the gentlest of pushing with a socket. Tap the socket once with a hammer to make sure it is seated against the shoulder and its done.

Good way to gauge if the hub is hot enough to start changing races is to spit on it and if it sizzles, it is hot enough (212F).

Driving bearings into cold aluminum either shears a thin layer of aluminum off as the steel race goes in, or pushes a pressure wave of the quite maleable aluminum ahead of it. Either way, you end up with a looser fitting hole than original. After a couple of times doing this, the holes often get loose enough to allow a worn bearing to spin the outer race and ruin the hub.

Then when I set the endfloat/preload I don't follow HD practice and set it loose, which allows 1/16" or more movement at the rim. I follow BMW practice and set with zero end float and maybe just the slightest bit of preload. Basically so the wheel spins freely with no wobble, no drag. BMW has a complex method of winding a string arond the axle and pulling it with a spring gauge at a certain reading etc etc but I have never bothered with that and never had problems. Seen BMWs run 100,000 miles and more like this.

Tapered bearing life will be longest at zero endfloat, or very slight preload, according to Timken and other bearing makers.
I'm not sure why HD specifies the loose fit. Maybe because a little too much preload will cause premature wear much quicker than a little too loose.

Another thing I do is use "waterproof" wheel bearing grease designed for boat trailer wheel bearings and marine use. It resists being washed out by water on the road or at the dreaded hot wash etc.

Just my .02c worth.

 

Came across this today...very good informative video on end play....for guys like me that like to watch the video rather than read the book. Waiting for new front bearings myself, this was reassuring.