Ain't no substitute for a proper exhaust system! Cones seem to me born out of the desire from some riders to use unsuitable exhausts systems. I have a Supermeg 2-into-1 which has a bit empty outlet into the muffler, so the pipes are fine, but the muffler does have baffles. If you have an empty muffler, try a Bubs baffle in it, if they make such a thing.

 

what bike & pipes are you wanting to use the cones on ? the Big city baffles will help a lot in all power rangers , all there really are is the old school washer & bolt But are welded in a pipe that slides in your header pipe or tail pipe look them up & read about them , they worked for me & some others I know

 

bike is 86FLHT

headers are standard hd electraglide with left side cross over removed from rear pipe and plate welded over resultant hole

muffler is bubs bad dresser, its straight through with fibreglass baffling around a perforated core

 

Torque cones were born back in the day when some folk thought running straight
pipes with no baffles was cool. Guys that I knew said seat of the pants told them
low and midrange torque did improve some while letting their pipes, particularly
fishtails, pop real good during decel. Never heard that torque cones ever did
anything more than that.

 

No need for the cones, they are for drag pipes if they make a difference at all.

 

We've had a few people put them in and it seemed to shorten the life of the exhaust valve. Think about in, the exhaust valve gets really hot with an open exhaust, so let's put sone restriction right at the header flange to keep even more heat on the valve, valve seat and the head surrounding the exhaust port!!!!! Doesn't make a lot of sense to put a free flowing exhaust on and then restrict right at the port!!!!! Plus I have seen a few fail and rattle around in the pipe. Just my two cents worth!!!
John

 

Never thought about that but makes great since. Personally never saw use for them. If ya want to stop reversing get a 2 into 1. Thanks.

 

My 2 cents worth / because we chased this

exhaust tuning is a math project - it has to do with the speed of sound and the negative wave that develops when the exhaust valve closes on the valve seat, and that sound travels at the speed of sound down the exhaust pipe

the size of the pipes is in a direct relationship to the exhaust valve size / the shape and length of the port in the head, and the overal length of the pipe < the negative wave is UN seen but it stops and starts at a location, that location IF found ( extensive Dyno work months and months every day ) can increase the exhaust track tuning / VIA the intake track tuning < ( another bute ) and that has its relationship with the Overlap in the camshaft numbers

i am trying to make it simple so i will say this

the negative wave travels at the speed of sound down the length of exhaust pipe

( like seeing a car crash 3 blocks away / than you hear it )

at the spot the wave stops is the exact spot ( if you find it ) you want the total length of the pipe to be lets say 29 inches cut at 90 degrees to the end // Because the the start and stop of the negative - shock wave creates the greatest suction on the exhaust valve if the pipe cut off is in the correct spot --

we have on a dyno found moving a muffler 1 inch shorter or longer created 5 or 6 more Usable HP -- for a street bike this is all for nothing as you are in an RPM range that is always changing in the low end of the motor - drag or road racing motors are Max effort, and these things can be adjusted and give the unit more available power in the RPM range you are using --

and yes as a kid knowing nothing but riding a bike and living on its seat the lollypop washer welded to a bolt in a set of drag pipes took the flat spot out SORT of - hahahahhahaha - johnjzjz

 

There's some good information on this site. I read this just last night...
http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_arcones.shtml