Adjustable pushrod advice
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,707
Likes: 3,018
From: Brighton, MI
Not to scare you, but do a search on a recently revived thread that was originally started by 95ultra. It is a nice detailed thread on what can cause the head gasket to leak and the fix for it. Not sure if 95ultra used a drill guide when he installed the timeserts or not, but I have read that it is a good idea to get the cylinder stud threads drilled straight and true. Hopefully 95ultra will comment on that.
Otherwise, your getting good advice. I wondered about the adjustable pushrods also and it seems there are pros and cons to them. Your taking the heads off so your pushrods will be removed anyways. The ez installs are a nice way to avoid taking the rockers and cover off, cut the old pushrods with bolt covers, use the ez installs after everything is done (like a cam change). But again, you have to take the rockers apart, so re-using the stock ones is not an issue.
Just make sure you label everything so they can go back the way they came out. Your pushrods should be color coded (intake and exhaust) if they are stock, and put them back in the same cylinder, same end up as before, etc.
Hopefully you have a good manual for reference, torque values, etc. Drawing a sketch on cardboard and pushing the bolts in there proper location on that sketch helps keep things organized so they can return them to there normal location on assembly. Along with baggies, a sharpee pen, and tape for labeling "front cylinder exhaust pushrod-this end up" or "this end to lifter" etc.
However, if you plan on a cam change or replacing the cam bearing (stock one can be an issue-do a search) you might want to consider that now. You are already part of the way there...YD
Otherwise, your getting good advice. I wondered about the adjustable pushrods also and it seems there are pros and cons to them. Your taking the heads off so your pushrods will be removed anyways. The ez installs are a nice way to avoid taking the rockers and cover off, cut the old pushrods with bolt covers, use the ez installs after everything is done (like a cam change). But again, you have to take the rockers apart, so re-using the stock ones is not an issue.
Just make sure you label everything so they can go back the way they came out. Your pushrods should be color coded (intake and exhaust) if they are stock, and put them back in the same cylinder, same end up as before, etc.
Hopefully you have a good manual for reference, torque values, etc. Drawing a sketch on cardboard and pushing the bolts in there proper location on that sketch helps keep things organized so they can return them to there normal location on assembly. Along with baggies, a sharpee pen, and tape for labeling "front cylinder exhaust pushrod-this end up" or "this end to lifter" etc.
However, if you plan on a cam change or replacing the cam bearing (stock one can be an issue-do a search) you might want to consider that now. You are already part of the way there...YD
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,059
Likes: 4,534
From: Haslet Texas
Or the James ones for that matter.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,448
From: la la land jerzey
i have not used james since cometic came out 15 / 20 years ago, so i do not know what james does, But cometic the torque spec come in the directions and its 42 Lbs feet of torque staggered like the harley directions, all othe head and motor torque is the same as factory spec
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Not to scare you, but do a search on a recently revived thread that was originally started by 95ultra. It is a nice detailed thread on what can cause the head gasket to leak and the fix for it. Not sure if 95ultra used a drill guide when he installed the timeserts or not, but I have read that it is a good idea to get the cylinder stud threads drilled straight and true. Hopefully 95ultra will comment on that.
Otherwise, your getting good advice. I wondered about the adjustable pushrods also and it seems there are pros and cons to them. Your taking the heads off so your pushrods will be removed anyways. The ez installs are a nice way to avoid taking the rockers and cover off, cut the old pushrods with bolt covers, use the ez installs after everything is done (like a cam change). But again, you have to take the rockers apart, so re-using the stock ones is not an issue.
Just make sure you label everything so they can go back the way they came out. Your pushrods should be color coded (intake and exhaust) if they are stock, and put them back in the same cylinder, same end up as before, etc.
Hopefully you have a good manual for reference, torque values, etc. Drawing a sketch on cardboard and pushing the bolts in there proper location on that sketch helps keep things organized so they can return them to there normal location on assembly. Along with baggies, a sharpee pen, and tape for labeling "front cylinder exhaust pushrod-this end up" or "this end to lifter" etc.
However, if you plan on a cam change or replacing the cam bearing (stock one can be an issue-do a search) you might want to consider that now. You are already part of the way there...YD
Otherwise, your getting good advice. I wondered about the adjustable pushrods also and it seems there are pros and cons to them. Your taking the heads off so your pushrods will be removed anyways. The ez installs are a nice way to avoid taking the rockers and cover off, cut the old pushrods with bolt covers, use the ez installs after everything is done (like a cam change). But again, you have to take the rockers apart, so re-using the stock ones is not an issue.
Just make sure you label everything so they can go back the way they came out. Your pushrods should be color coded (intake and exhaust) if they are stock, and put them back in the same cylinder, same end up as before, etc.
Hopefully you have a good manual for reference, torque values, etc. Drawing a sketch on cardboard and pushing the bolts in there proper location on that sketch helps keep things organized so they can return them to there normal location on assembly. Along with baggies, a sharpee pen, and tape for labeling "front cylinder exhaust pushrod-this end up" or "this end to lifter" etc.
However, if you plan on a cam change or replacing the cam bearing (stock one can be an issue-do a search) you might want to consider that now. You are already part of the way there...YD
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,059
Likes: 4,534
From: Haslet Texas
i have not used james since cometic came out 15 / 20 years ago, so i do not know what james does, But cometic the torque spec come in the directions and its 42 Lbs feet of torque staggered like the harley directions, all othe head and motor torque is the same as factory spec
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 290
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Ordered Cometic today...thanks
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,448
From: la la land jerzey
we do a stagger torque start with 15 Lbs than 32 lbs than we do the 42 i also spray the bolts with WD 40 and let them sit 10 min before installing them to include the top that sits on the head - moist would be a term not soaking wet or dripping - shake them off
the 4 bolts as to what one to start with / we copy the harley book pattern
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,059
Likes: 4,534
From: Haslet Texas
i also insure before we start that the bolts go ALL the way on the studs without binding
we do a stagger torque start with 15 Lbs than 32 lbs than we do the 42 i also spray the bolts with WD 40 and let them sit 10 min before installing them to include the top that sits on the head - moist would be a term not soaking wet or dripping - shake them off
the 4 bolts as to what one to start with / we copy the harley book pattern
we do a stagger torque start with 15 Lbs than 32 lbs than we do the 42 i also spray the bolts with WD 40 and let them sit 10 min before installing them to include the top that sits on the head - moist would be a term not soaking wet or dripping - shake them off
the 4 bolts as to what one to start with / we copy the harley book pattern
Thank you for the WD-40 tip.
And all the other good information for that matter.