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i have not used james since cometic came out 15 / 20 years ago, so i do not know what james does, But cometic the torque spec come in the directions and its 42 Lbs feet of torque staggered like the harley directions, all othe head and motor torque is the same as factory spec
This is not the correct procedure. The cometics come with an instruction sheet and must be followed precisely. I witnessed a race mechanic ruin heads by failing to follow the cometc instructions.
This is not the correct procedure. The cometics come with an instruction sheet and must be followed precisely. I witnessed a race mechanic ruin heads by failing to follow the cometc instructions.
This is not the correct procedure. The cometics come with an instruction sheet and must be followed precisely. I witnessed a race mechanic ruin heads by failing to follow the cometc instructions.
i hate to wreck your day but we also have added a sealer to the head / bace gaskets as well as the top gaskets on special apps --
i bought one of the first sets john had available for our Buell road racing program in 1995, and he has been a great asset to all who use his product - but directions to some is Gospel to others its a guide -- jz
If you do find that you have stripped threads in the crank case, at the base of one of the studs, just below the base gasket, there is a good fix-Time-Sert repair kit. Some have done the repair with heli-coil and had no problems. I've used both, but for this area of the motor, I would recommend the Time-Sert. Solid steel insert, will not give at all. If you have to do this procedure, contact me or someone else that's done it. Someone will walk you through it. As for aligning the drill bit to drill out the damaged threads, a short, small machinist square will do the trick. There's several little shortcuts to this job. Look underneath the base gasket. If there's a rise in the area around one of the studs then one could be pulling out of the case, or if one of the studs won't torque down correctly. What makes me think that something is stripped in the crankcase is the fact that you say the motor was just rebuilt, and now it has a blown head gasket. Could have been overtorqued, one head bolt just not torqued correctly. Lot's of things. I don't mean to ramble on, just trying to cover everything. While you're in there, I would install new Harley lifters, just to be safe. It's already apart. Keep us posted.
If you do find that you have stripped threads in the crank case, at the base of one of the studs, just below the base gasket, there is a good fix-Time-Sert repair kit. Some have done the repair with heli-coil and had no problems. I've used both, but for this area of the motor, I would recommend the Time-Sert. Solid steel insert, will not give at all. If you have to do this procedure, contact me or someone else that's done it. Someone will walk you through it. As for aligning the drill bit to drill out the damaged threads, a short, small machinist square will do the trick. There's several little shortcuts to this job. Look underneath the base gasket. If there's a rise in the area around one of the studs then one could be pulling out of the case, or if one of the studs won't torque down correctly. What makes me think that something is stripped in the crankcase is the fact that you say the motor was just rebuilt, and now it has a blown head gasket. Could have been overtorqued, one head bolt just not torqued correctly. Lot's of things. I don't mean to ramble on, just trying to cover everything. While you're in there, I would install new Harley lifters, just to be safe. It's already apart. Keep us posted.
I have inspected the base and do not see any issues...no threads showing and surface is flat. I think the head gssket blew because he didnt torque anything down. The rear cylinder took a bit of muscle to back out the bolts during disassembly, while the front (blown gasket) were rather loose and required no muscle....so possibly he didn't torque them....thoughts?
I appreciate all the input...dropping off the jugs, heads, and rocker covers Monday for powder coat....Cometic gaskets to arrive next Tuesday, so I am hoping by Saturday I can put everything back together.
I have inspected the base and do not see any issues...no threads showing and surface is flat. I think the head gssket blew because he didnt torque anything down. The rear cylinder took a bit of muscle to back out the bolts during disassembly, while the front (blown gasket) were rather loose and required no muscle....so possibly he didn't torque them....thoughts?
I appreciate all the input...dropping off the jugs, heads, and rocker covers Monday for powder coat....Cometic gaskets to arrive next Tuesday, so I am hoping by Saturday I can put everything back together.
I am jealous.
Its gonna be at least 2 weeks for me.
Could be that he forgot to torque one correctly. Could also be that one just wouldn't tighten completely down. You said the rear cylinder bolts were tight, but the front ones were loose. Before you put everything back together, maybe you could screw a threaded bolt into the case as a test to see if it will torque down. If those aluminum threads are pulling out, you'll know pretty quick. Don't mean to harp on this, but from what I've read on this site, it's not an uncommon problem. After I replaced the head gasket on the front cylinder of my bike, I put everything back together and realized the right rear stud wouldn't tighten down. Had to take everything back apart. Just double check everything before you reassemble the motor. Lot's of guys on here are much more knowledgeable than I am about these old evos, and I try to be careful and only comment about procedures that I've actually done, so that I don't give bad advice. In the case of your motor, I would just double and triple check everything before putting it back together. Good luck.
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