doing this all the time in a shop we look for something loose taking it apart and when we do we find your problem up front -- i think at the assembly he might find that as well - hope not but normally the head gaskets just dont blow out with out something moving ( block stud ) would be my guess - johnjzjz

 

Yes John, after I heard the head gasket spitting, and I removed the gas tank, I could actually turn the right rear head bolt with my fingers. With a blown head gasket, there's usually an underlying problem.

 

Forgot to mention-check for galled threads at the bottom of the studs.

 

Yes I am going to check out all of the cylinder bolts. Instead of removing them all and trying to torque down a seperate bolt, would I be able to slide a washer down the rod, then a piece of conduit followed by another washer and nut...then try to tighten and torque to acheieve the same result?

 

I would think you could do that, or maybe just screw two nuts down on the threads, tighten them against each other, and torque down the top nut. Maybe put a lock washer in between them. I just woke up so none of this may make any sense in an hour. ha.

 

the stud design is that it streaches to the torque value to maintain it ( heat and cold cycles ) so using a tube that is squair cut and washers and using the original head bolt ( thread length is the thing for correct streach ) you can do it BUT double nuts is not the way -- think about it - johnjzjz

 

One other note, I don't know what type base gaskets are in your motor now, but if you ordered the complete Cometic kit, I would highly recommend installing the metal base gaskets that come with it. You'll never have to worry about them leaking again. You've already got the head off, and you can remove the jug with the piston still in it. Just lift the jug high enough to remove the snap ring and wrist pin and the whole thing will lift up with the piston still in place. Install the new metal gasket, and put it back together. This way you don't have to mess with compressing the rings. Ask the guy that rebuilt it first. It may already have metal base gaskets. As for adjustable push rods, I would install them. You may want to swap lifters, cam etc somewhere down the road. They sure make things easier. I installed the Harley E-Z install adjustable pushrods from the dealer about 3 years ago. Never had a problem. If you do go this route, be sure to get the ones that you can completely remove without pulling the head. Harley sells two types of adjustable pushrods. One type just has an adjustment in it, the other has a longer threaded section so that you can remove them without taking the motor apart. They may be "Screamin Eagle". Can't remember.

 

That makes sense John, now that I've had my coffee.

 

All good advice...which i am doing...tomorrow planning on spending the day in the garage checking as much as I can. The current pushrods are new...within 200miles or so I think I will re use them.
Really psych'd about doing this project.

 

Can't speak for James but torque specs for Cometic are included in the kit.