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I have 10.1 weiscos, shaved heads, ev27, never had a ping even in Hotlanta.
The guy who blueprinted my eng has built 1000,s of street engs. 100,s of 1st place dyno shootout out bikes and has 3 patents on int. and head design . i think i'll take his word when he say's that 9.7:1 is the perfect comp. ratio for my cam set up .
The guy who blueprinted my eng has built 1000,s of street engs. 100,s of 1st place dyno shootout out bikes and has 3 patents on int. and head design . i think i'll take his word when he say's that 9.7:1 is the perfect comp. ratio for my cam set up .
I think your right on.. I've been researching my *** off, bothering some very knowledgeable guys, trying to figure out what I want to run in mine.. I actually chose a little bigger cam to get the number I wanted, rather than cutting the new pistons. But, frankly, I'm a bit baffled that Wiseco doesn't offer anything between 8.5 and 10:1 for our Evo's.. My belief is that you need to keep your cranking compression near 180 to meet a safe balance between power and reliability w/o detonation.. Shaving those pistons or opening the combustion chamber are the only way to get it once your decided on a cam.. Looking forward to your results.
With a 36 degree intake timing 9.7-9.8 is safe, 10-1 is optimal for power but starting to enter detonation prone, needs perfect AFR plus timing. A big bike in 95 degree weather loaded, 36 degree intake timing 10-1 will detonate in the roll on area, light bike won't as noticable.
Shaving pistons is common in the automotive world, thought they call it flycutting but never hear much if it with Harley's.
I think your right on.. I've been researching my *** off, bothering some very knowledgeable guys, trying to figure out what I want to run in mine.. I actually chose a little bigger cam to get the number I wanted, rather than cutting the new pistons. But, frankly, I'm a bit baffled that Wiseco doesn't offer anything between 8.5 and 10:1 for our Evo's.. My belief is that you need to keep your cranking compression near 180 to meet a safe balance between power and reliability w/o detonation.. Shaving those pistons or opening the combustion chamber are the only way to get it once your decided on a cam.. Looking forward to your results.
when Wiseco first came out with pistons for the evo they desided on metric rings 3mm 3mm 4mm i believe, and they did not work out well the rings were to thin and every motor we did smoked like crazy after a few thousand miles - and it cost them plenty
when they did the first design we still had leaded fuel at the pump, not every place but you could still get it, and 10 and even 11 to one was not out of the question, the 11s are gone but they are a small company and being that it cost them plenty to change out Now for a motor 30 years old when the cast pistons actually do for me a better job in an evo -- jz
With a 36 degree intake timing 9.7-9.8 is safe, 10-1 is optimal for power but starting to enter detonation prone, needs perfect AFR plus timing. A big bike in 95 degree weather loaded, 36 degree intake timing 10-1 will detonate in the roll on area, light bike won't as noticable.
Shaving pistons is common in the automotive world, thought they call it flycutting but never hear much if it with Harley's.
you can only do shaving on solid dome forged pistons saftly - like a Nitrous piston -- hollow dome cast and KB silverlites wont work as they are too thin --
you can only do shaving on solid dome forged pistons saftly - like a Nitrous piston -- hollow dome cast and KB silverlites wont work as they are too thin --
Familiar with cutting the domes down back in the day, nitrous was still used in a dentist office although I did have Dave Calvert from CP pistons set me up a set of nitrous pistons for a alcohol injected nitrous 572 Hemi, those pistons were a picture of heaven
Ya Highbarst, when you find a great engine builder you have to trust him, experiance is a good to have on your side when 100 miles from nowhere or the Evo needs a little respect with the boys.
Some more progress today taking my sweet time with this motor triple checking every bolt torque before I go on to the next . Motor at a standstill untill i get my frame back . Installed my semi homemade front marker/signals they started off as rears with the wiring going through the bot took them apart drilled new hole and directly bolted them to the upper tree . Made a new wire harness for rear light and installed new rear marker/signals to match the fronts . [IMG[/IMG]
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