Properly Timing an Evo question
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
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That does look a lot easier
Regarding the earlier question about VOES. I have the led hooked up and took it for an hour ride. Once warmed up VOES is grounded and under vacuum unless I open the throttle when accelerating. It never goes ungrounded at any rpm unless I open the throttle. It seems to be working as intended. I am still wondering about the ignition module. I don't want to spend $150 on a new one if it's fine
Regarding the earlier question about VOES. I have the led hooked up and took it for an hour ride. Once warmed up VOES is grounded and under vacuum unless I open the throttle when accelerating. It never goes ungrounded at any rpm unless I open the throttle. It seems to be working as intended. I am still wondering about the ignition module. I don't want to spend $150 on a new one if it's fine
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Senoia, Ga., by way of Miami, Fl..
You guys and girls can save a lot of time by using a Kwicktyme. They attach inside the inner primary, then you mark your rotor so it lines up with the engine set at TDC to the Kwicktyme TDC mark. Now when you start the engine no oil spray and it has more than enough timing marks for any engine, or you can just dial back to TDC if you have a dial back timing light. Additionally you can put another mark for the rear cylinder and if you have an ignition that allows it you can time that cylinder as well!!!! Hope this helps.
John
John
That's kind of funny John.. I was thinking about you and that we hadn't heard from you in a while I was fighting mine. It started with my wondering why I didn't buy this when I built the bike.......
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Been doing a lot around here looking for some older vintage type bikes. The ones I've found are either total crap not even usable for parts. or they want a fortune for them because "they saw what they are worth on TV"!!!! But I'll keep looking. I also have replaced the clutch and primary on my 75 FXE (93" with nitrous), putting bigger valves and redoing the heads on the sporty, plus tinkering with the custom framed FXR. Add to that the grandkids were down for a while as school is out so the new boat got a workout. An old buddy from the Italian Special Forces who came to America and enlisted and was in my unit visited for two weeks with his family as well. Oh and I still have to make Momma happy, other than that all is quiet here !!!LOL!!!
John
John
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Guys, I ordered a Q curve sporty module should I create a new thread or is this the spot, how do I time it for the different module and advance curve once I plug it in?
I read an old post from Spanners where he was using the same module 32465-95A but he's not around to ask. Do I just leave the sensor plate where it is since it's at 35 degrees now at 2000+ rpms?
I read an old post from Spanners where he was using the same module 32465-95A but he's not around to ask. Do I just leave the sensor plate where it is since it's at 35 degrees now at 2000+ rpms?
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Bluffton, South Carolina
Start wit it where it is and see how it runs. Then advance it until it starts to ping then retard it a little to where it doesn't. That will get you close with a non-adjustable module.
John
John
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Thanks. Will do
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Well finally got the module in, can't really feel any difference at all. Didn't hear any pinging either but not sure I would over the noise of the wind and pipes. I'll test it more and swap it back to stock maybe halfway through a ride to see if it's any different but at this point it's probably going on eBay and I'll leave the stock p curve or maybe look for something other than the q curve.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Guys, I ordered a Q curve sporty module should I create a new thread or is this the spot, how do I time it for the different module and advance curve once I plug it in?
I read an old post from Spanners where he was using the same module 32465-95A but he's not around to ask. Do I just leave the sensor plate where it is since it's at 35 degrees now at 2000+ rpms?
I read an old post from Spanners where he was using the same module 32465-95A but he's not around to ask. Do I just leave the sensor plate where it is since it's at 35 degrees now at 2000+ rpms?
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
Well finally got the module in, can't really feel any difference at all. Didn't hear any pinging either but not sure I would over the noise of the wind and pipes. I'll test it more and swap it back to stock maybe halfway through a ride to see if it's any different but at this point it's probably going on eBay and I'll leave the stock p curve or maybe look for something other than the q curve.
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Under full throttle it feels like the power drops off at 4500rpms. Pulls hard at 4000 then no juice 4500+
Found this on google. Looks like I must have picked the wrong module this one looks like it's less advanced than my stock p curve. Spanners was this the one you used or did I completely misread when I searched this.
Found this on google. Looks like I must have picked the wrong module this one looks like it's less advanced than my stock p curve. Spanners was this the one you used or did I completely misread when I searched this.
Last edited by br549A1; Sep 6, 2014 at 02:42 PM.