Evo shake
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 317
Likes: 48
From: Minnesota
Damn! Sorry to hear man. My younger brother (yeah he's only 54) riders a 1980 Wide Glide, pre dyna, pretty much an FL frame with a raked Sportster front end. He likes to say riding on the warning strips is no different than riding on smooth pavement. I've ridden his bike and he's ridden mine. He thinks I've got a Cadillac, I think he's got a John Deere 70 pulling a 4 bottom plow. To some degree it is the nature of the beasts we choose to ride.
Dad used to say, "Run it till it quits, then you'll know what to fix".
I was hoping your clutch issue would point me in the right direction with mine. Now I intend to ride it like a Harley and see what shakes out,
Best of luck KP, hope it works out for ya.
Dad used to say, "Run it till it quits, then you'll know what to fix".
I was hoping your clutch issue would point me in the right direction with mine. Now I intend to ride it like a Harley and see what shakes out,
Best of luck KP, hope it works out for ya.
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
I figured that wasn't your problem when you said the vibration was always there clutch in or out load or no load. that bearing is bad in over 70% of the bikes out there and no one notices it until it gets real bad. and only felt under a load. the only thing that can cause the kind of vibrations you have is the motor. like it has been stated before it is a harmonic vibration. all engines have this there is no way to stop it. but you can stop things from amplifying the problem. like having the flywheels trued and balancing the rotating assembly and the biggest problem that is overlooked poor or low compression on one of the cylinders if the compression is more than 5 pounds difference it will amplify the problem.
that's why I try to tell ppl not to mill heads or shave pistons by thousandths. you have to cc them. on my latest evo build for the bastard fxr the heads were stock I wanted 76cc to get that number they only took .013 off of one and .034 off of the other. if I would have told them to just take .020 off the engine would have had a nasty vibration.
that's why I try to tell ppl not to mill heads or shave pistons by thousandths. you have to cc them. on my latest evo build for the bastard fxr the heads were stock I wanted 76cc to get that number they only took .013 off of one and .034 off of the other. if I would have told them to just take .020 off the engine would have had a nasty vibration.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,358
Likes: 34
Is it worth picking up a new set of neck bearings or not worth the effort? They seem cheap enough autozones sells a trailer kit with lm44463 timken for under $30 for both sets and races
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
As others have stated I think the problem is in your crank.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 2,358
Likes: 34
How do I check the crank runout, if I have to pull the primary I'm going to stick a piece or dynamite in the gas tank
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,874
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From: Houston, TX
And they are probably right. I guess where I'm at is with the 12" apes on I can live with it but don't like them or the position. I have the stock bars on and like the position and look but I can't hang on in fact I won't even ride. So I guess I'm just grasping here trying to make it ok to ride but I guess I'm just wasting my time in the end.
How do I check the crank runout, if I have to pull the primary I'm going to stick a piece or dynamite in the gas tank
How do I check the crank runout, if I have to pull the primary I'm going to stick a piece or dynamite in the gas tank
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 913
Likes: 5
From: indiana
the little bit of time and money it takes to replace them is nothing compared to 2 weeks in a ICU or even worse. so if they're bad replace them.