Two videos and some questions.

Spanners, in response to your comments here's what I learned tonight

So in the picture below, the blue arrows point to where my comp cover bottoms before the springs contact the sliding cam. The red circles are where they should contact. I can push this hard and it spins not tight, if I remove it and hold it together its much harder to spin meaning its bottoming there where the arrows are. I confirmed my nut doesn't bottom. I measured my spacer behind the ext and off the rotor, the spacer is .052 thick.

The videos below, one shows the clutch hub wobble, you can here it, before I loosened the bolt. The other one shows the compensator spinning with just a little bit of effort on the nut with a socket wrench. Seems like it spins on there way too easily. Just thought I'd post them up and you can tell me what you think. I inspected the primary chain link by link like you asked before, looks and feels fine.





Clutch hub


Compensator movement

 

I would not believe that your nut is not bottoming from what I have seen....my advice is to take a quarter inch off the bottom of the tube nut and try it again.

If it makes no difference you won't have ruined the nut but that is exactly what I have just cured by shortening the nut on a Road King.

 

Hub appears like the rivets have came loose but it's hard to tell in the video. Did you ever disassemble the hub to inspect that?

Spanner has you on the right track with shortening the nut. It also looks like the extention is coming out too far , and not allowing the spring cap correct compression. This could be from worn parts , but I have added a shim between the sprocket and extention to cure the issue. The key point to doing this is retaining chain alignment of course.

 

The rivets are tight or appear to be. The ring gear and hub all move together and wobble on the inner hub which I believe is play in the bearing. Probably can't see it in the video but you can see the outer hub move where the tabs for the clutch plates sit. It's hard to video with one hand steady while rocking it back and forth. Also I was looking at oem parts diagrams looks like up to 2005 they are all the same except dynas have a spacer between the nut and the spring pack and others don't. Not sure why that would be if they are all the same parts and engines. I just measured that spacer/washer and it's .25 thick

 

"The rivets are tight or appear to be

The rivets you appear to be cking are not the ones that were loose on mine. To ck the one I'm talking about you need to remove the clutch basket off of it's shaft.

Sure hope ya get it nailed down . respects WP

 

So those can't be checked until it's pressed apart? I didn't buy a press yet, trying to avoid that.

 

Correct. The rivets I've been talking about hold the drive gear to the hub.

If you're saying the hub shake in the video is bearing play then quit chasing your tail man you have found a failed part the can play a HUGE factor in your vibe issue.

It's really not that big of a job to press that hub apart. You can also save yourself half the money by source the bearing from a " bearing supply " store.

 

Also I would stress out on buying a press. Disassemble the clutch pack , and take the hub along with a six pack to a local auto shop. The cost will be minimal.

 

The basket needs to be removed from the bike. The rivets that hold the primary drive chain sprocket to the basket can be seen then. Now Not sure if the plates and discs need to be taken out of the basket, mine was already apart when I found the problem. Someone here can probably speak to if the bearing has to be removed to ck the rivets but I don't think it does.

Hope ya get it fixed. WP

 

It's all apart. I saw those rivets it looks like the hub rocks on the bearing. I'll take a better look tonihhy