Stock 88 looking for a little Power
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
RE: Stock 88 looking for a little Power
Steve, you are right about wanting the right combination. Remember, headwork & cams make power, but there are many different ideas on how or who does the headwork. You get what you pay for. Too many believe that big valves & big ports are the answer. This is not the case if you want the feeling of power (torque). Big ports & valves are for horsepower (high rpm). Porting for torque is much better for normal street motors.
As for cams, most cam grinders are big on high duration grinds. The higher duration the less torque at normal rpm's. If you really want to feel the power, go for a shorter duration & higher lift cam. There is only one that I know of that uses this theory and believe me it works. Check with Bobby Woods @ woodcarbs.com. I have been big on the hi-lift/short duration theory for many years of autocrossing race cars. It works.
Back to your questions, Mikuni's are great, but difficult to tune for most. It's ok to go with 42-45mm carbs if you do headwork (anytime you let the motor breathe better, you need more fuel and air). It's difficult to beat a blueprinted CV carb.
You wan't the pushrods to be "Quick Install" variety, not just adjustable, so you can remove them without pulling your heads.
Depending on your cam & headwork you may wan't a higher rev limit on a TC motor (adjustable ignitions are the best to adjust your spark curve & rev-limit. After doing my heads & cams, I had to go with a higher rev limit to keep from hitting the rev limiter all the time. TC motors easily rev to 7000+ RPM with headwork.
Do NOT let just anyone do your heads. Research their porting styles. There are several good headguys out there, BC Gerolamy @ bcheads.com is the very best in my opinion.
Hope this helps!!! P.S. Ballpark your headwork at $ 1000. give or take.
As for cams, most cam grinders are big on high duration grinds. The higher duration the less torque at normal rpm's. If you really want to feel the power, go for a shorter duration & higher lift cam. There is only one that I know of that uses this theory and believe me it works. Check with Bobby Woods @ woodcarbs.com. I have been big on the hi-lift/short duration theory for many years of autocrossing race cars. It works.
Back to your questions, Mikuni's are great, but difficult to tune for most. It's ok to go with 42-45mm carbs if you do headwork (anytime you let the motor breathe better, you need more fuel and air). It's difficult to beat a blueprinted CV carb.
You wan't the pushrods to be "Quick Install" variety, not just adjustable, so you can remove them without pulling your heads.
Depending on your cam & headwork you may wan't a higher rev limit on a TC motor (adjustable ignitions are the best to adjust your spark curve & rev-limit. After doing my heads & cams, I had to go with a higher rev limit to keep from hitting the rev limiter all the time. TC motors easily rev to 7000+ RPM with headwork.
Do NOT let just anyone do your heads. Research their porting styles. There are several good headguys out there, BC Gerolamy @ bcheads.com is the very best in my opinion.
Hope this helps!!! P.S. Ballpark your headwork at $ 1000. give or take.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 12,946
Likes: 32
From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: Stock 88 looking for a little Power
As i posted earlier, for that kind of dough, you can supercharge it, and have torque, horsepower, with a good idle, and good drivability.
joe
[&:]
joe
[&:]
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth TX
RE: Stock 88 looking for a little Power
3000 is a very nice budget. You can do some simple mods for less money and have over 100 tq by 2500 and have mid 90's for HP. A 98 inch kit will offer great gains for your money simple, low compression, use many of your stock parts, easy to tune. Does not require much really it is a very simple kit. I installed them for two of the moderators here and they both love them. They both own baggers and love the passing power. One told me that he is now getting fuel milage than stock with the kit.
As for super chargers they work are not much money verse's power they give, main draw back is size, and looks. Many do not like the size of them and the look. I wish that Aero Charger still made there kit . I installed several on baggers and man will they shove a bagger down the road at speeds that made the bike a handful .
As for super chargers they work are not much money verse's power they give, main draw back is size, and looks. Many do not like the size of them and the look. I wish that Aero Charger still made there kit . I installed several on baggers and man will they shove a bagger down the road at speeds that made the bike a handful .
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 1
From:
RE: Stock 88 looking for a little Power
Okay, I'm also looking for just a little more performance, however don't have $3K to spend. What's the absolute minimum that I can do for my 05 Ultra (also Stock TC88)? p.s. not interested in loud pipes
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 5
From: Fort Worth TX
RE: Stock 88 looking for a little Power
Add a 21 g cam will work good and give you some extra goooooooooo. I sell the 95 inch kit complete with cam and all gaskets for under 1000. I work on a exchange basis so you can ride until you get the parts. Take the 95 kit and use a 26 cam and it will run very well. Cam swap is about the least thing you can do to get some good gains, the 95 kit will really make you feel it seat of pants type of power. ANd as you know it just goes up from there. I have customers that buy the 98 kit and add a small cam stock heads and are in the 90/90 level. The TQ curve on a 98 is much flatter and starts sooner that 95 kit. Not that you can compare the two it is unfair as one is larger. Here is a sheet that I posted before this is a very typical build. I am not saying you have to have to get a 98 but try to view some 95 inch builds. You will find that with 9.7.1 compression and a 37 g cam that they are in the 25 ftlb less range at 2500, and by 3000 they close and at 3500 very close. TO really feel the power at low rpm you need either cubic inch or high compression and a aggresive cam.
I have install 21's in stock bike and you can feel a nice increase, but by no means is it going to run like a larger cubic inch motor. The big thing you will feel is tq and that mainly comes from increase in cubic inch. You are getting some great advice. If you want a 95 dyno sheet let me know I can post one or several dozen.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3113/0849BE2E7C8C4ED195DF9FF95AE52DFD.jpg[/IMG]
I have install 21's in stock bike and you can feel a nice increase, but by no means is it going to run like a larger cubic inch motor. The big thing you will feel is tq and that mainly comes from increase in cubic inch. You are getting some great advice. If you want a 95 dyno sheet let me know I can post one or several dozen.
[IMG]local://upfiles/3113/0849BE2E7C8C4ED195DF9FF95AE52DFD.jpg[/IMG]
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