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Ok, So I had the bike broke down about 1,200 miles ago for oil consumption. Just rings and pistons were replaced. Issue is still evident when I pull the oil dip stick. Got the run around from the guy that did the work so I am saying F$%^ it all and I am going to invest about 2 weeks of my time in tearing apart the engine to find out what the problem is. Here is what I have thought of and found out from others. It's one of three things. 1. Bad valve guide / guide seals. 2. Wet Sumping oil pump 3. Rings never seated Now if anyone has any other suggestions I would love to hear them, if not I am taking bets on what it may be. Also for those that have done this many times before, could ya give me some insight on what I should do myself and what I should leave up to the "professional" mechanic? My plan is to tear it down in the frame, have a clymers for tec refrence, going to bag and box all the parts that come of each cylinder individually (one box for front and one for back) I may also take pictures of it as I go along, just so I can use it as a reference. Well look forward to your thoughts. Thanks!
RE: Engine Breakdown and Bets on what the problem is
I agree with Mentor, the valve seals are a problem that has been a known problem for years.
Take off the pipes and intake....if there is oil present it's more than likely the oil is getting under those tower seals and being pumped out. Change out the seals with Vinton seals or something along those lines and get a bottom collar for the valve spring.
RE: Engine Breakdown and Bets on what the problem is
Ok so day one breaks down like this. I pulled the crankcase oil drain plug....... I got about 6oz. out of the crankcase. So we can rule out the wet sump. Thanks for the info on the valve guide seals, That is tomarrows test, I am going to do some compression tests and hopefully a leak down test on sat to hopefully zero in on the problem. I did a qusi-compression test and looked at my back piston about a week ago, got 150 psi from both cylinders at cold and 120 psi from the rear cylinder when warm. I looked into the sparkplug hole and saw the top of the rear piston which had no carbon deposits on it. I could read the laser etched numbers off of it. Now if it were valve guide seals I thought someone told me this would occur. If it was a ring problem, there would be carbon deposits on the top, but the outside of the piston would be clean? Any truth to this method of trouble shooting? Also shouldn't the compression be greater when hot? That is always what I thought, but had a guy tell me it was the other way around. Also I pulled the oil dip stick and it had a faint smell of gas.I know I run rich with one of my jets, could this cause the rings not to seat? And here I was hoping with the pulling of the crank plug that I would have all the answers I needed. Yet now I am hoping it is whatMentor and Docsaid, that it is the valve guide seals. Thanks again for the info!
RE: Engine Breakdown and Bets on what the problem is
Check and see if it smokes more on accelleration or decelleration. Usually decell is seals where as accel is rings. Where are your head breathers routed?
RE: Engine Breakdown and Bets on what the problem is
My guess would be valve guide seals. The real question is why the guy who did your work didn't already know that because it is a well known and published problem.
RE: Engine Breakdown and Bets on what the problem is
The smoke is blue/white not black?? Compression should be done wet and dry not hot and cold. Dry compression test then couple of squirts of motor oil in the cylinder, turn it over a few times to disperse the oil then wet test. You should see 15 lbs or less increase if the rings are good. Does it puff when reved after idling for a while? = valve seal, or on deceleration= valve seal. Smoke on acceleration or at constant cruising speed = rings.
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