Break in Techniques
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Break in Techniques
I am having my 95" put together over the next couple of weeks, and as I am sure all that have had to wait to get back on your bike after some new mods have felt, I cant wait to get back on that bike a ride it. I have been reading alot of the posts from this forum, and I have learned alot, thanks to all of you. I am curious though about the break in techniques that you use, I know that there are several builders that check these post, so I am curios to know a couple of things. 1. Have any of you ever used the break in technique described on the mototuneusa website? Link:http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
2. If you have used that technique, what do you think?
3. If that technique doesn't do it for you, what are your opinions on what works for performance and longevity.
Thanks alot, and I look forward to learning more. Hope everyone has a great new year.
2. If you have used that technique, what do you think?
3. If that technique doesn't do it for you, what are your opinions on what works for performance and longevity.
Thanks alot, and I look forward to learning more. Hope everyone has a great new year.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 11,436
Likes: 13
You will get hundreds of different opinions on this question. The main thing is , NEVER ride your bike like you stole it when breaking it in. After investing all that money, you must take it easy for the first 1200 miles or so. Regular oil changes, your builder must have told you at which intervals he wants you to change oil out. Dont lug motor at low rpms. keep rpms fairly high if anything. And cycle rpms and speed up and down, not staying at one speed for any length of time. Stay off the freeway for a while, just ride around in the city. Stop and go is good for the piston rings as they are seating. After all this is the most important part of the break-in is your piston rings. And stop for a coffee every 50 miles or so and let bike cool down . Also known as heat cycles. GOOD LUCK im sure you will get plenty of advice here. Why not just talk to the mechanic who built your motor, he should tell you exatly what you need to do. Thats his job!!
Last edited by hpfatboy; Jan 4, 2009 at 05:38 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,663
Likes: 7
From: Northeast Ohio
hpfatboy is right, you will get a lot of opinions.
I have basically broken in all my motor using the technique mentioned in the link without issues. Think about it, when you buy a new car, do you baby it for the first 1000 miles, not exceeding 55mph, and nothin more than 1/2 throttle - hell no for most, you drive it off the lot and drive it as you normally would.
You will get the argument "but this is an air cooled engine, it needs to be broke in differently" - not the case other than heat cycling if you have new cylinders or heads, if they are seasoned, even that goes out the window. If you still have wear (seating) going on at 1000 miles, it is not going to stop and you will eventually have an engine that pushes oil.
Rings and cylinders are steel in both water and air cooled, and have the crosshatch honed in - you are actually "wearing the rings" against the hone to get them to seat. This occurs very quickly, think about how many times the cylinder and rings travel the length of the cylinder even at idle - 1000 times a minute so the wear or seating in is going to happen very quickly. I have no problem with riding for 20-50 miles or so and putting a bike on a dyno. Everything is seated in and you will not do any damage or accelerate wear.
I have basically broken in all my motor using the technique mentioned in the link without issues. Think about it, when you buy a new car, do you baby it for the first 1000 miles, not exceeding 55mph, and nothin more than 1/2 throttle - hell no for most, you drive it off the lot and drive it as you normally would.
You will get the argument "but this is an air cooled engine, it needs to be broke in differently" - not the case other than heat cycling if you have new cylinders or heads, if they are seasoned, even that goes out the window. If you still have wear (seating) going on at 1000 miles, it is not going to stop and you will eventually have an engine that pushes oil.
Rings and cylinders are steel in both water and air cooled, and have the crosshatch honed in - you are actually "wearing the rings" against the hone to get them to seat. This occurs very quickly, think about how many times the cylinder and rings travel the length of the cylinder even at idle - 1000 times a minute so the wear or seating in is going to happen very quickly. I have no problem with riding for 20-50 miles or so and putting a bike on a dyno. Everything is seated in and you will not do any damage or accelerate wear.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 953
Likes: 1
From: underground
i"ll have to agree with dalton,the rings are seated quick. when i inframe a n14 cummins with new pistons,rings and sleeves,they are usualy back on the hwy pulling full loads wide open at governor within 25 to 50 miles.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 1
From: Indy area
Years ago I read an article about building motorcycle roadracing engines. The trick was to wipe down the pistons/rings/cylinders with acetone before final assembly. The rings were seated by the time the engine settled on an idle speed. Granted, these were engines which might only go a thousand miles between builds...
If you haven't made full power well before 1000 miles you've not done your engine any favors. No matter what purpose for the engine.
If you haven't made full power well before 1000 miles you've not done your engine any favors. No matter what purpose for the engine.
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 336
Likes: 0
Liking all of the opinions so far. It really does make sense to get on the rings to have them seat properly. My engine builder basically aggrees with the above site, I like the idea of having second opinons either to back up the theory or to offer a better one. Thanks to all who have replied so far. Hopefully by next week I'll have a motor ready to break in, then I'll just have to get the Portuguese winter to cooperate...
for you guys who build V twin engines, what oil do you use to break it in?
not lookin for a syn/dino argument.
thinking of using Torco, but i'm still exploring my options.
any thoughts?
not lookin for a syn/dino argument.
thinking of using Torco, but i'm still exploring my options.
any thoughts?
Trending Topics
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 682
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
I break most of my engines in the motoman way. Never had any trouble either. As long as you don't lug it. By accelerating, you're putting pressure on the rings, which seats them. By letting the engine decel work, it's sucking a little oil up around the rings, which then washes the metal out of the piston rings, again helping with a better seat. Change the oil and 25-50 miles after this break in method. Again at 500 and 1000. They you are good to go!
Mike
Mike
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Diamond bar, California
I ran my engine too rich when I was breaking it in, and almost ruined my cylinders, so make sure the tune is pretty close before you start riding!
I ran my bike mildly for the first few miles, then I alternated road speeds from 30 to 60 miles per hour in 3rd gear, after 10 cycles then I went home to change the oil.
after that just normal riding.
