Pulled Threads
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: NE Ohio
Pulled Threads
I'm looking for advice on what the best method of repairing some pulled threads compliments of the parts changers at the dealer. This past summer the dealer changed the ACR and one of their ham fisted parts changers must have pulled the threads and then glued the bolt in. The bolt hole is one of the 4 in the head which holds the rocker support down, the threads up top are pretty much gone.
HDF Community Team
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From: san antonio
You will have to pull the head for a proper fix. You could take it to a machine shop but if you have the tools you can DIY the repair. IMHO, timeserts are the best for this kind of repair.
http://www.timesert.com/
http://www.timesert.com/
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: NE Ohio
Couple of good ideas, I just want to make sure I get the strongest repair considering its application. I already knew when I found the threads pulled I was removing the head so its already off. I have a machine shop a few miles away so getting it repaired won't be a problem.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
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I did heli-coil for similar bolt repair.
I think what I did was not have a completely clear bolt hole. Had some engine oil in it when I tightened up. Hydrolic force between aluminum head a steel bolt stripped those threads as if I drilled them.
I think what I did was not have a completely clear bolt hole. Had some engine oil in it when I tightened up. Hydrolic force between aluminum head a steel bolt stripped those threads as if I drilled them.
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: NE Ohio
Was my first thought but I had sprayed it out with brake cleaner and shot compressed air into it before I put the bolt in. I always clean with brake clean and compressed air when I'm using thread lockers. The bolt was brand new right out of the package with thread locker patch already applied from the MoCo. I always replace the bolts for the rocker support with new ones when I've removed it.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2007
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From:
+1 on the timesert. Strongest way to go. I have fixed a whole lot of stripped threads in my career and I've never had a timesert fail. Helicoils on the other hand...
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Road Warrior
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Probably overkill with this.
On my rocker supports I have the SE forged. They came with two grade 8, 1/4in. longer socket head bolts for the spring side.
Well I figures what was good for the goose--
I bottomed tapped all 4 holes on each head. You can go down at least 3/8-1/2 in deeper in each.
Installed the longest, I think 1/4in., maybe 1/2 longer than stock.. Grade 8 socket with hardened washers. Grade 9 washers were too thick and didn't fit the bolt pockets anyway.
The helicoil hole I used two helicoils. Got lucky with the second. It fitted just right on top of the first just below the surface.
About 1 inch of threads, not gonna move. And maybe take some load off the original threads.
On my rocker supports I have the SE forged. They came with two grade 8, 1/4in. longer socket head bolts for the spring side.
Well I figures what was good for the goose--
I bottomed tapped all 4 holes on each head. You can go down at least 3/8-1/2 in deeper in each.
Installed the longest, I think 1/4in., maybe 1/2 longer than stock.. Grade 8 socket with hardened washers. Grade 9 washers were too thick and didn't fit the bolt pockets anyway.
The helicoil hole I used two helicoils. Got lucky with the second. It fitted just right on top of the first just below the surface.
About 1 inch of threads, not gonna move. And maybe take some load off the original threads.
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Ultimate HDF Member
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From: NE Ohio
Sounds like your good to go. The machinist I had install the Heli Coil said the same thing Hillside said, they are stronger than the parent material. The guy runs a blow alcohol Funny Car and is quite experienced at working with aluminum so I figure he knows what he's doing. One thing he said where people screw the pooch is they don't use thread locker on the coil, he uses red permanent locktite.
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