I have a 1973 Super Glide. I purchased the bike as a basket case and recently got it back together. The bike runs but not as good as it should.
The previous owner got the bike from his father and he told me that the stock cam may have been changed to a high performance cam. It also has a SU carb on it.

Here are the problems...
Black soot on the spark plugs (fouling)
Grayish black smoke from the exhaust
Runs rough at take off and vibrates
I ride it down the street and back and then shut the bike off. The plugs are so fouled that it will not restart. If I clean the plugs, it starts right up.

Here is what I have attempted...
Adjusted timing... the points backing plate is turned clockwise as far as it will go. I dont have a timing light but if I turn it the other way, it gets worse.
Adjused carb... Its set at one turn out, seems to run best between 1 and 1 1/4 turn out
Adjusted pushrods... pretty sure they are good.
Adjusted points gap... pretty sure thats ok too

I'm not sure what else to do at this point. I have been working on bikes for quite a while but I am certainly no expert.

I always try to work on my bikes myself but I'm really tempted to take it to the local shop to see what they think.

Maybe one of you guys have had the same problem and can help me out.

Thanks
Lee

 

Can't help you with the SU, but it does sound like you're running rich. I would time the bike with a light to make sure you know where it stands. I start all my builds with static timing, but a light helps. Also, I don't remember if you said points or electronic?

If points: replace points and/or condenser if they appear pitted, old, etc. Gap the points at .018 on the small and large lobes of the cam.

Timing recommendation:
1.) Remove the primary chain inspection cover along with the timing hole cover. Pull the plugs, put the bike in third or fourth gear and lift the rear tire slightly with a jack (or whatever you prefer) so the tire can be turned.

2.) Slowly rotate the back tire forward. When the front cylinder comes up to compression stroke (judged by finger over the spark plug hole or watching the intake pushrod close), watch the marks on the flywheel. They changed over the years, but the first mark will be the Advanced mark. Put it directly in the center of the hole.

3.) This is why I had you remove the inspection cover. Reach in, clean off the rotor with a rag, and make a mark at 3:00 with a Sharpie or nail polish. Make a similar mark on the inner primary cover directly to the right.

4.) Turn the wheel a little more and align the second mark directly in the center. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Make another mark at 3:00 on the rotor, but I usually make it look different than the first (all dots, dashes, etc.) so I can tell the difference when a light is on it.

5.) Reinstall the round timing hole cover. Now you can time the bike with the inspection cover off by the marks you made without oil slinging out of the hole into your eye or on the light.

BTW - "All The Way Counterclockwise" as you stated is retarding the timing. Clockwise advances the timing. You'll notice by the cam gear turning counterclockwise, which drives the timing.

Hope this helps. Shoot me a PM or post in the thread if you have questions...

Hobo

 

Sorry.. I just looked at it again and its turned all the way clockwise not counter clockwise.

Its points. They are new.

I will take your advice and get a timing light.

If its out of timing and the plate wont turn far enough to correct it, what is the fix?

Thanks
Lee

 

On some bikes I've had to take the plate off and file the slot a little bigger in order to get more room to go one direction or another, but that is usually not the case. I think you'll find that while the bike may be out of time, there are other issues going on as well. I rebuild at least one "old iron" bike a year and it's amazing what you find has been done on these things over the years...