"try" figuring this one out

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Oct 15, 2011 | 03:16 PM

#31

FLHXXHLF

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Joined: Aug 2008

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Quote:

Originally Posted by LMmarine86

Have you removed the passenger floorboards/pegs and the mounts lately? When putting them back on, if you put the right on the left and visa versa, there will be contact on the primary. After everything you have done to get rid of the vibration, that's the only thing that comes to mind that you could have vibration transferred to the frame. I accidentally did this when I first bought my bike. It caused a vibration like you describe. It's at least worth a shot to look into. Good luck!

checked that. Plenty of clearence

Oct 16, 2011 | 12:29 PM

#32

djl

HDF Community Team

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 12,776

Likes: 2,607

From: san antonio

It's the tune. I don't understand the TTS deal; if you bought it, it's yours and if your bike was tuned with the TTS, it is no good to anyone else. I am thinking you might have paid for a TTS but didn't "buy" one.

Oct 16, 2011 | 03:32 PM

#33

FLHXXHLF

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Quote:

Originally Posted by djl

There's a long laundry list of old parts I didnt receive . I ask for them three times. Finely I got the story it was part of the payment. Later I found out the son took the parts and built his own motor. Their reputation speaks for its self.

As for the TTS master tune ? Well this is his words exactly Quote - My cost to tune your bike with the master tune will be $1000.00. If you don't like the tune, you don't have to pay. I told him I just wanted the TTS and a good tune and all my parts. He took my PCIII and tuned the bike and kept the tuner for some ungodly reason. I don't know if anyone ever got their TTS tuner to be honest.

They also offered me a deal where they would set back the odometer for $400 to what ever I wanted. That was when I realized I needed to get everything and get out of there and let the attorney handle it.

I'm thinking on going with the thunder max. If theres a better self tuner out there I would love to know.

Food for thought. When I had the PCIII the bike still vibrated like it did. Im thinking the crank cant compensate for the new piston rods and pistons. If you felt the vibration you would understand. Somethings very wrong and I can't find the cause.

Sep 11, 2018 | 11:07 AM

#34

klumme

Stage I

Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 1

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From: Victoria, BC

Check the motor mounts.

If one or more motor mount is defective the motor will shake you off the bike. (Usually at idle rpm.) I have replaced both fronts and one rear already on my bike (2009 FLHR) and each time I have fixed the vibration issue. Thanks.

Sep 11, 2018 | 11:33 AM

#35

ohioflhs

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 1,485

Likes: 232

From: Ohio

I replaced my front motor mount with a much harder compound one. It shakes like hell. It has gotten a little better in the 4000 miles I have ridden it, but it is still shaking like hell. Everyone said it will take a while to break in. Hoping next year will be a little less shaking.

Sep 12, 2018 | 05:09 PM

#36

NORTY FLATZ

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Jan 2015

Posts: 16,013

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From: Sandy Eggo's North County

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohioflhs

It transfers more energy because it isn't insulating like the other "less firm compounded" mount. Want it to be smoother? Install a "looser" mount.

Sep 13, 2018 | 11:23 AM

#37

ohioflhs

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Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 1,485

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From: Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by NORTY FLATZ

It transfers more energy because it isn't insulating like the other "less firm compounded" mount. Want it to be smoother? Install a "looser" mount.

Still hoping it will break in. I was just suggesting to the OP that it could be the motor mount.

Sep 13, 2018 | 01:39 PM

#38

TomCop

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2017

Posts: 310

Likes: 58

From: UAE

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohioflhs

You need to understand why your engine is equipped with rubber motor mounts and other engines with fixed motor mounts. The rubber mounts are required to deal with the secondary forces of your engine. In case the engine has fixed motor mounts, the engine is equipped internally with counterbalances (twincam B) to deal with theses sec. forces.
With rubber motor mounts the engine is "hanging" in the frame and has a degree of freedom to "shake".The engine shakes, but not the frame.
So, choosing harder rubber, will almost eliminate/ reduce the compensation-ability to deal with the secondary forces. The generated secondary forces have to go somewhere, with harder rubber your frame starts taken up those forces. And that is what you feel. In time the rubber might get " tired" and get a little more flexible, but you are compensating a lot in comfort. And not to forget that you put more stress on the frame and all fasteners.
I believe the M8 has both - rubber motor mounts and counterbalancers. MoCo had to reduce the impact of the counterbalancers or it would be a completely still, smooth engine. Guess they didn't want that to happen.