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I t-bone my 1998 FLSTC 2 years ago. I thought the frame was straight, but the more I removed from the frame the more issues I discovered. I have tore the bike down to the frame. I called my local Maui Harley Davidson to get a price to replace the frame after taking it to the local machine guru, who informed me that nobody on island can repair the frame. I was told by him that I could cut off the neck and HD could sell me a new frame. The dealer said that it is a discontinued item. I don't want to go aftermarket. I am looking into shipping the frame to Washington to a frame straightener.
Has anyone else had a frame straightened? Who is reputable? Should I try a different dealer for a new frame?
We straighten frames at the shop. I would suggest looking for a shop that measures the bike before they toss it in a jig and start going at it. We use a computrack machine and require a rolling chassis to be able to measure the bike. There are other machines out there that also measure but I'm not sure if they require a rolling chassis or not.
The work required depends on how bad the frame is. Some are just a simple put in the jig and tweak on it. Others require heat in which case you may have to repaint the frame after. Some are bad enough where they can't be repaired.
I would suggest doing some research and ask about the process the shop uses to do the job.
Stress relieving critical to straightening a frame
I T boned a lamp post and nearly killed myself and the scoot. The frame was "straightened" by some cowboys who did not do stress relieving. After huge money rebuilding bike I rode it for about 7 years until one day the frame kicked and snapped at the repair place. I then had to strip down to the frame and sent it off to be repaired (again) with one big difference, this time after having all the welding done I sent it off to have heat treatment done, this reduces the induced stresses created by welding. Done in a tempering furnace oven at 300-350 deg C for three hours, then slowly brought down to ambient over another 3 hours. Make sure this is done, or you just waste all your time and energy in the rebuild.
Last edited by 62 Pan Shovel; Aug 3, 2020 at 07:21 AM.
Reason: Spelling error
I t-bone my 1998 FLSTC 2 years ago. I thought the frame was straight, but the more I removed from the frame the more issues I discovered. I have tore the bike down to the frame. I called my local Maui Harley Davidson to get a price to replace the frame after taking it to the local machine guru, who informed me that nobody on island can repair the frame. I was told by him that I could cut off the neck and HD could sell me a new frame. The dealer said that it is a discontinued item. I don't want to go aftermarket. I am looking into shipping the frame to Washington to a frame straightener.
Has anyone else had a frame straightened? Who is reputable? Should I try a different dealer for a new frame?
Look into Rack and Pull Industries in Rancho Cordova, Ca.
The brothers at Dr. John's motorcycle frame straightening in West Covina CA. Been at it a long time with good data base on different frames and very accurate. A step beyond reply #4.
Ask around at the dealer or local indy if someone has the same bike , talk to him and see if you can compare you're measurements with his . Worth a try .
With due respect, that shall not be useful at all.
The frame needs to be measured in 3D, a jig is required to bring the frame back in conformance with spec, including the relative neck angles.
i bought a new 1974 ch and 6 months later, i took the front end off a 1972 chevy impala. back then, hd used cast steel fixtures to hold shinola tubing. the neck was cast as well as the foot pegs cross piece and rear engine/swing arm piece. if these broke, no repair can be made as hd did not sell them. i was fortunate that only the right pegs was slightly bent so i threw the frame on a steel table and welded in some stops and with the uses of hydraulics and temperature paint sticks, i pull the frame back and still riding it to this day.
fast forward, the frame hd makes today are way better and probably more user friendly for repair, if you have the spec's which hd back when had in the FSM. it is a tedious task and must make sure you do not over correct. being bent is one thing but having a collapsed member is a killer.
as a side note, recently i did a frame mod so i can remove the oil pump without unbolting the engine since i was restoring the frame. i installed a spool that can be taken out, this is when i saw the seamed shinola tubing.
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