Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
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Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
I tried to avoid the newbie...newbiness by searching the DIY section and this section but didn't find much.
I just bout a '02 FXDWG3 and now that I've had it a whopping week and got to ride more than 5 mins last weekend it seems the rear brake is dragging on it. Once you ride around and the entire bike has warmed up some after 10-15 minutes you can hear a slight draggin sound when coming to a stop on a quite street. To go much further and try to prove myself wrong I made sure I wasn't accidentally cover the brake with my foot andthe last bit on the way home I avoided the rear brake all together. After stoppingI made sure to feel the rotors. The front was warm but not abnormal but the rear was pretty hot, untouchable.
I'm used to acaliper that floats but this appears to be a dual piston thats hard mounted soI'm guessing just thecaliper piston boots should pullthe pistons back in. My only theoryI can manage at this time is the previous owner toldme he just put tires on it. So when heput the wheels back on,is the rear just a touch out of center in relation to the caliper causing a dragging effect.
I plan to dig into it this weekend so I'm just gathering info right now. Any ideas, theories or things I should be on the lookout for? The only other thing I saw was somebody said to grease the slide pins and with the previous owner being a clean freak I wonder did he over do something.
I just bout a '02 FXDWG3 and now that I've had it a whopping week and got to ride more than 5 mins last weekend it seems the rear brake is dragging on it. Once you ride around and the entire bike has warmed up some after 10-15 minutes you can hear a slight draggin sound when coming to a stop on a quite street. To go much further and try to prove myself wrong I made sure I wasn't accidentally cover the brake with my foot andthe last bit on the way home I avoided the rear brake all together. After stoppingI made sure to feel the rotors. The front was warm but not abnormal but the rear was pretty hot, untouchable.
I'm used to acaliper that floats but this appears to be a dual piston thats hard mounted soI'm guessing just thecaliper piston boots should pullthe pistons back in. My only theoryI can manage at this time is the previous owner toldme he just put tires on it. So when heput the wheels back on,is the rear just a touch out of center in relation to the caliper causing a dragging effect.
I plan to dig into it this weekend so I'm just gathering info right now. Any ideas, theories or things I should be on the lookout for? The only other thing I saw was somebody said to grease the slide pins and with the previous owner being a clean freak I wonder did he over do something.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,265
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From: Los Angeles, CA
RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
Sounds normal to me. I think it has a lot to do with the material of the pads. Try some http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/home.htm as I have read that will take care of the problem.
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RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
Well, as a follow up. The rear brake dragging is not normal. It's clearly wrong and sounds like crap.
I finally got around to taking a closer look at it. The previous owner had a chrome caliper cover on it so I got it off, then the brace that mounted the cover. (Stupid multi point head bolts). The had the fun of suffering like most probably already have trying to figure out the 2 that hold the pads on. 1/4" 12 point btw ya'll. Again, what stooge designed a "servicable" part with this bolt. They should be made to find that socket in a tool box full of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets not labeled or organized at all. OK, so what I found out is my go through "pins" had no lube on them. So I give them a clean whipe then put some high temp silicon on them and wiped off the excess. I never could get the pads out to inspect them. I did notice there was no shims on the pads and the side closest to the wheel, the pistons appeared to be out further than I would have thought for it to have been sitting that long. They should have relaxed some. I'll see if I can't get them out tomorrow. Got to get an inspection sticker first. BTW, any idea's where to mount the "hogjockey.com" inspection sticker plate too?
I finally got around to taking a closer look at it. The previous owner had a chrome caliper cover on it so I got it off, then the brace that mounted the cover. (Stupid multi point head bolts). The had the fun of suffering like most probably already have trying to figure out the 2 that hold the pads on. 1/4" 12 point btw ya'll. Again, what stooge designed a "servicable" part with this bolt. They should be made to find that socket in a tool box full of 1/4" and 3/8" sockets not labeled or organized at all. OK, so what I found out is my go through "pins" had no lube on them. So I give them a clean whipe then put some high temp silicon on them and wiped off the excess. I never could get the pads out to inspect them. I did notice there was no shims on the pads and the side closest to the wheel, the pistons appeared to be out further than I would have thought for it to have been sitting that long. They should have relaxed some. I'll see if I can't get them out tomorrow. Got to get an inspection sticker first. BTW, any idea's where to mount the "hogjockey.com" inspection sticker plate too?
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Davie, FL
RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
1)- You never said what exact brake it is ie: aftermarket/stock?
2)- Completely disassemble brake and while you are there, pull the pistons & clean/inspect the inside for dirt.
3)- clean all parts if you have a stock caliper just like it is listed here. Go to this page (LINK) and click on the Hyperlink: Clean/Install Brake Pads & Calipers LINK: http://motorcyclemetal.com/gpage12.html You can skip the part of replacing pads if your pads are good.
4)- The brake dust on sinistered pads are croosive and harm your chrome, so wipe it off & polish for protection. The sinister brake dust corrodes your pistons and also cakes onto them thus prohibits the pistons from retracting completely causing dragging of pads.
5)- For your own information, I can grab my rotors when running (provided I coast to a stop) & my rotors are not at all warm. My pads do not drag at all-NONE. Good Luck
PS I do sell Lyndall pads & if needed & if you call (only) you get a member price along with free shipping. The Lyndalls will decreases stopping distance by 10%-30%, not harm your rotors, no corrosive dust, and reduced/no noise.
2)- Completely disassemble brake and while you are there, pull the pistons & clean/inspect the inside for dirt.
3)- clean all parts if you have a stock caliper just like it is listed here. Go to this page (LINK) and click on the Hyperlink: Clean/Install Brake Pads & Calipers LINK: http://motorcyclemetal.com/gpage12.html You can skip the part of replacing pads if your pads are good.
4)- The brake dust on sinistered pads are croosive and harm your chrome, so wipe it off & polish for protection. The sinister brake dust corrodes your pistons and also cakes onto them thus prohibits the pistons from retracting completely causing dragging of pads.
5)- For your own information, I can grab my rotors when running (provided I coast to a stop) & my rotors are not at all warm. My pads do not drag at all-NONE. Good Luck
PS I do sell Lyndall pads & if needed & if you call (only) you get a member price along with free shipping. The Lyndalls will decreases stopping distance by 10%-30%, not harm your rotors, no corrosive dust, and reduced/no noise.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 329
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From: Central New Jersey
RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
I had a similar problem once.
The rear breake would start to hang up after the bike was well warmed up, but acted normally when the bike was cool.
Check the clearance inbetween the exhaust pipes and the rear master cylinder. I had just changed my pipes and the rear pipe was to close to the master cylinder. This caused the brake fluid to expand when it got hot and apply the rear brake. I was able to remove some fluid and get it home. Reset the new pipes and problem was gone.
Hope this helps.
The rear breake would start to hang up after the bike was well warmed up, but acted normally when the bike was cool.
Check the clearance inbetween the exhaust pipes and the rear master cylinder. I had just changed my pipes and the rear pipe was to close to the master cylinder. This caused the brake fluid to expand when it got hot and apply the rear brake. I was able to remove some fluid and get it home. Reset the new pipes and problem was gone.
Hope this helps.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2007
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RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
Like FastHarley said, takethe caliper apart and CLEAN it. It isn't that hard to do. That in mind, you said that the person you bought it from had just changed the rear tire? If it was not done on a tire machine or even if it was, the rotor may have gotten bent. It wouldn't take much. Harley spec. for run-out on the rotors is only .008 of an inch. (that's 8 thousandths of an inch) I am very aware of this because I just went through HELL with my front brakes for the very same reason. I had to replace both front rotors because I changed the tire myself and didn't remove the rotors before hand. Another lesson learned that I'll never forget.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
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From: Davie, FL
RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
arcticblast Don't feel too bad. A guy I know owns a shop. Bought a 00 Roadking with 800 original miles. went through the bikefrom top to bottom. The last thing he did was have one of his guys put new tires on the bike near quitting time. These guys should know better s they do it for a living. Ya, you guessed it. No bar that night.
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RE: Rear brake draggin 02 DWG
Well, I'll post another follow up of some more info I found.
To start with the brakes are completly stock to the best of my knowledge, there is a chrome cover over the front and rear calipers. As far as I know the pads are the OE HD pads. It does have an aftermarket exhaust on it, a white brothers 2 into 1 and it does run right by the master cylinder so thats one heck of a theory I'm going to look at.
Stangly enough I found the front one is the one making to noise. But does not get hot. It gets warm from use but feels about what you would expect. The rear is far to hot. I plan to take them apart this week. The front I'm fine with but I'm guess the rear does not come off. Apears to be made into a casting that the axle goes through. I'm hunting a service manual as we speak so I can at least get a blow up of the parts to how everything is setup.
I've been looking for an excuse to get a dial indicator so I'll look into the runout of the roter too.
Thanks for the info.
To start with the brakes are completly stock to the best of my knowledge, there is a chrome cover over the front and rear calipers. As far as I know the pads are the OE HD pads. It does have an aftermarket exhaust on it, a white brothers 2 into 1 and it does run right by the master cylinder so thats one heck of a theory I'm going to look at.
Stangly enough I found the front one is the one making to noise. But does not get hot. It gets warm from use but feels about what you would expect. The rear is far to hot. I plan to take them apart this week. The front I'm fine with but I'm guess the rear does not come off. Apears to be made into a casting that the axle goes through. I'm hunting a service manual as we speak so I can at least get a blow up of the parts to how everything is setup.
I've been looking for an excuse to get a dial indicator so I'll look into the runout of the roter too.
Thanks for the info.
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