Installing exhaust #2
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and yes, there is a definite torque to those bolts, as well as a tightening sequence. check with your service manual, but for a 2010 (and 2007, and 2013) touring you start with the bottom nut on the rear cylinder. tighten it to 9-18 INCH/lbs, then tighten the top nut to 100-120 inch/lbs, then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 inch/lbs.
then move to the front cylinder and start with the top nut. tighten it to 9-18 inch/lbs, then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 inch/lbs, then tighten the top nut to 100-120 inch/lbs.
its a good idea to check them again after a couple hundred miles.
I know about cold here in Minn. So it's a normal issue to bring an engine up to running temp after initial install too re-check and/or confirm fit.
The trouble your running into is common. Like I said to Bart, just think of the exhaust as something that has to "move" as the other engine parts get hot/cold during engine cycles,, with the Big shot's the pipes, flanges and gaskets need to be installed loosely as "one unit",,, with everything kind of stuck in place and just "hanging there" before it get's snugged down.
In Cold temps, you may have to run the engine when parts are loose for a minute just to expand the pipes/flanges/gaskets,, allow it to cool to handling temp and wiggle some more for a proper fit.
Here's the deal. Your doing it yourself, that's a good thing. But you will need to be aware of your work now and results in the future. If there is something wrong, you can't take it back to a dealer and demand they fix it right. All you can do is complain about the mechanic,, then fix it again.
I love topics like this,, it's about folks learning and sharing their experience so others can learn from it.
Nay Sayers and pro's be damned,, working on exhaust is a P.I.T.A.
The manual would show you the torque procedure and how many inch pounds to tigthen the header bolts up to.
Everything I do on the bike I use a digital torque wrench and refer to the manual.
Good luck.
Anyway, I'm just gonna loosen everything and put them back together once again now that I know that the point isn't to make the flange and head touch..
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
And I use the procedures outlined in the manual. And a 1/4 " torque wrench or is it a small 3/8 model that has a beep.
I'm careful to go in the sequence so I do not over tighten the bolts and crush the exhaust header gaskets and get leaks.
If you get leaks you got new problems.
There is a reason you take your bike to the Harley dealer if you do not know how to torque things on it.













