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Installing exhaust #2

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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 04:18 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by DamienBlade
Really? I had no idea. Here's how my "problem flange" looks:
http://i1.aijaa.com/b/00302/13637722.jpg
well, i will say that yours is the first that i've ever seen go that far. the logic (to me) is that if the flange goes all the way to the head, then how do you know that it is holding the pipe in there as tight as it should be? like a bolt that bottoms out in the threads, you can torque it to x lbs, but it isn't really holding that much torque on the part.....

and yes, there is a definite torque to those bolts, as well as a tightening sequence. check with your service manual, but for a 2010 (and 2007, and 2013) touring you start with the bottom nut on the rear cylinder. tighten it to 9-18 INCH/lbs, then tighten the top nut to 100-120 inch/lbs, then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 inch/lbs.

then move to the front cylinder and start with the top nut. tighten it to 9-18 inch/lbs, then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 inch/lbs, then tighten the top nut to 100-120 inch/lbs.

its a good idea to check them again after a couple hundred miles.
 
Old Dec 25, 2014 | 06:14 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Bart Leetch
Is there a required torque value for this application?
Yes, as explained above. And pretty light torque too because, exhaust pipes are a flexible thing,, The "pipes" receive the highest amount of temp swing in operation of all metals on any bike. They're thin tubes that have a primary purpose of directing hot gases away from an explosion,, right(?) There's gonna be a lot of movement during operation,, start/run = super hot too stop = just plain cold.

Originally Posted by DamienBlade
One other thing to be noted:
Currently I am working in temperatures below freezing point,,,,I mean, if they're too tight will they pop in the spring as the metal expands?
Yup. Maybe not "pop" but it ain't gonna be pretty.
I know about cold here in Minn. So it's a normal issue to bring an engine up to running temp after initial install too re-check and/or confirm fit.
The trouble your running into is common. Like I said to Bart, just think of the exhaust as something that has to "move" as the other engine parts get hot/cold during engine cycles,, with the Big shot's the pipes, flanges and gaskets need to be installed loosely as "one unit",,, with everything kind of stuck in place and just "hanging there" before it get's snugged down.
In Cold temps, you may have to run the engine when parts are loose for a minute just to expand the pipes/flanges/gaskets,, allow it to cool to handling temp and wiggle some more for a proper fit.

Here's the deal. Your doing it yourself, that's a good thing. But you will need to be aware of your work now and results in the future. If there is something wrong, you can't take it back to a dealer and demand they fix it right. All you can do is complain about the mechanic,, then fix it again.

I love topics like this,, it's about folks learning and sharing their experience so others can learn from it.
Nay Sayers and pro's be damned,, working on exhaust is a P.I.T.A.
 
Old Dec 25, 2014 | 06:45 PM
  #13  
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If you had a Harley manual. The very 1st thing you should have. And a digital torque wrench.
The manual would show you the torque procedure and how many inch pounds to tigthen the header bolts up to.
Everything I do on the bike I use a digital torque wrench and refer to the manual.


Good luck.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:14 AM
  #14  
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I use the craftsmen release torque wrench. Works for me.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:53 AM
  #15  
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well, i will say that yours is the first that i've ever seen go that far.
Well I'm also probably the first person who has spent 2 nights figuring out ways to make the flange go as far as possible lol.. And I do have the smaller gasket that allows for this much better than a regular gasket.
Anyway, I'm just gonna loosen everything and put them back together once again now that I know that the point isn't to make the flange and head touch..
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:56 AM
  #16  
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Unless torque wrenches are calibrated different fm USA models...I say you're over-torquing those flange nuts a bit. What are you set at?
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 02:44 PM
  #17  
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you are way over tightening those bolts the flanges should not be flat with the head. you should tighten each side evenly meaning cylinders, start with your fingers then snug a little with wrench then finish with a torque wrench. at this point your current gaskets are NG and should be replaced you will never get both flanges flat, at the point you are now from those picks you will run the risk of snapping the bolts on the head that the flange is not sitting flat.buy new gaskets and start over.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 02:57 PM
  #18  
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My HD dealer recommends the SE gaskets over the stock and do not double up on the thinner SE gaskets.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #19  
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I like the Tapered gaskets.
And I use the procedures outlined in the manual. And a 1/4 " torque wrench or is it a small 3/8 model that has a beep.
I'm careful to go in the sequence so I do not over tighten the bolts and crush the exhaust header gaskets and get leaks.
If you get leaks you got new problems.

There is a reason you take your bike to the Harley dealer if you do not know how to torque things on it.
 
Old Dec 26, 2014 | 07:13 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Nitro 54
My HD dealer recommends the SE gaskets over the stock and do not double up on the thinner SE gaskets.
I've read a few posts elsewhere where some forum members have had good success with doubling up non-tapered gaskets when the flanges are too close to the cylinder heads when properly torqued - personally I don't see any harm in trying this.
 
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