Proper braking what tips
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 28,842
Likes: 16,583
From: Wisconsin, USA
I use front breaks most of the time apply bank breaks with the front to make a sudden stop.
My safety class tought me (non abs) that you apply both breaks for a emergency stop if your front break locks release them then re apply. If the back breaks lock keep it locked. If you unlock the results will be worse than if you keep it locked and happen to lay it down.
Now let's hear everyone's Internet opinions on that haha
My safety class tought me (non abs) that you apply both breaks for a emergency stop if your front break locks release them then re apply. If the back breaks lock keep it locked. If you unlock the results will be worse than if you keep it locked and happen to lay it down.
Now let's hear everyone's Internet opinions on that haha
It is really more nuanced than that. If you start sliding, then keep it locked. But if you can release before it starts sliding do that. As soon as I hear a squeal, I let up. It is the main reason I practice quick stops. Usually for yellow lights, if nobody is behind me.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 16,013
Likes: 7,139
From: Sandy Eggo's North County
I use front breaks most of the time apply bank breaks with the front to make a sudden stop.
My safety class tought me (non abs) that you apply both breaks for a emergency stop if your front break locks release them then re apply. If the back breaks lock keep it locked. If you unlock the results will be worse than if you keep it locked and happen to lay it down.
Now let's hear everyone's Internet opinions on that haha
My safety class tought me (non abs) that you apply both breaks for a emergency stop if your front break locks release them then re apply. If the back breaks lock keep it locked. If you unlock the results will be worse than if you keep it locked and happen to lay it down.
Now let's hear everyone's Internet opinions on that haha
Let me ask you another way...Why would a motorcyclist purposely crash to avoid a crash?
Now that that is out of the way, here's an instance where "laying it down" is a better alternative. Imagine you're riding along, and a semi truck turns in front of you, blocking your POT (path of travel.) You have no time to brake, and the trailer takes up both lanes, so swerving is out. You can either~ ram yourself against the side of the trailer, and have the kenetic energy of the motorcycle push you into the wall even harder, or, lock up both brakes and hold them until you're on the ground sliding. Naturally, if you are on a sport bike, you'll end up going over the bars and likely eating the trailer wall, but you get my point.
Remember that "circle of events" in class?
Many things have to occur for this senario to happen. It's almost never just one thing that is the crash causation.
1. Not paying attn.
2. Not looking "down range"
3. Not developing an "escape plan."
4. Not developing a "street strategy."
5. Taking into consideration environmental inputs. (night/day/rain/snow/cold/hot)
6. Lack of proper training
7. Pie
Lastly, what are "bank breaks(sp)?
Last edited by NORTY FLATZ; Aug 23, 2015 at 04:28 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 641
Likes: 30
From: Clovis, CA
Had a cager pull out in front of me from the left not too long ago! She stopped right in front of me. I was going about 60. Luckily there was a fairly wide median between two fairly wide lanes, giving me the time to react. I would characterize my right hand behavior as a gradual but purposeful application of front brake until the forks were compressed. I then added rear brake and began the down shifting sequence one gear at a time keeping the RPMs matched all the way to first gear. I didn't really think about it as I typically stop using the same technique only to a lesser degree of "purposefulness" depending on the situation.
Applying the front brake with purpose, (but not grabbing a whole handful...two fingers is all on my 2014 RK), allows the bike to begin scrubbing a large portion of speed off. Once the bike settles back a bit to a balanced condition, the rear brake comes in to supplement. The down shift keeps the transmission in an appropriate gear for acceleration should the need to escape the situation becomes apparent.
Its a busy process, but one I've used on the dirt very successfully and expect to develop and hone the process on the road.
There's a KTM factory rider ( Shane Watts) who does a demonstration on stopping power of a motorcycle using different strategies. He does the demo on tall wet grass. Yes he has knobbies, but the physics of the demo still apply.
I think his DVDs are called DirtWise
Applying the front brake with purpose, (but not grabbing a whole handful...two fingers is all on my 2014 RK), allows the bike to begin scrubbing a large portion of speed off. Once the bike settles back a bit to a balanced condition, the rear brake comes in to supplement. The down shift keeps the transmission in an appropriate gear for acceleration should the need to escape the situation becomes apparent.
Its a busy process, but one I've used on the dirt very successfully and expect to develop and hone the process on the road.
There's a KTM factory rider ( Shane Watts) who does a demonstration on stopping power of a motorcycle using different strategies. He does the demo on tall wet grass. Yes he has knobbies, but the physics of the demo still apply.
I think his DVDs are called DirtWise
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,030
Likes: 177
From: Tipp City, Ohio
You don't say what kind of bike you have. On a lighter bike you can get away with sloppy technique. Touring bikes are unforgiving of poor technique.
I took the Skilled Rider's Course, after skidding my Ultra a few times. I also recommend reading Proficient Motorcycling.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Mot.../dp/1889540536
Use both brakes as much as possible. At low speeds, reduced traction, especially if front wheel is turned, use rear only.
Ideally you should enter a curve at correct speed, but if you find you need to slow in turn, stand bike up as much as possible and use rear only. Gingerly.
Practice panic braking before you need it. Tendency is to lock rears. Apply firmly but slow enough that you don't lock it up. At first squeal, release enough to avoid locking. If the rear wheel locks enough to skid forward, don't release. That will result in a high side. Just ride it out, go home and get new undewear!
I took the Skilled Rider's Course, after skidding my Ultra a few times. I also recommend reading Proficient Motorcycling.
http://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Mot.../dp/1889540536
Use both brakes as much as possible. At low speeds, reduced traction, especially if front wheel is turned, use rear only.
Ideally you should enter a curve at correct speed, but if you find you need to slow in turn, stand bike up as much as possible and use rear only. Gingerly.
Practice panic braking before you need it. Tendency is to lock rears. Apply firmly but slow enough that you don't lock it up. At first squeal, release enough to avoid locking. If the rear wheel locks enough to skid forward, don't release. That will result in a high side. Just ride it out, go home and get new undewear!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 7,776
Likes: 2,252
From: wet coast BC
Has anyone just used the stop switch, you know the run/stop switch? That may work.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 105
Likes: 9
From: Rhode Island
Proper braking what tips
Color me crazy but when riding two up on the ultra, which is often the case, I use two feet at a stop. Less so when I'm solo unless conditions warrant it. Also, when two up I try to allow a lot more breaking distance since it seems braking dynamics change significantly
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