Drill bit for extracting easy out
#21
Well I was going to change the primary fluid so I went to take the primary cover off or I should say the derby cover and they were so darn tight I guess from the dealer that I bought it from a broke three of the T27 screws so at that point I figured let me take the primary cover off and maybe I can get it from the backside wrong OK so now I go to put the primary cover back on look at the specs in the manual and it says to torque him down to 110 foot pounds well that's really tight three of them broke never listen to that again had to cut the derby cover off the primary so now I have two bolts into the casing from the primary cover and 3T 27 torques screws broken in the primary cover talk about not happy I am not happy so I went out and bought a kit started drill them out got the first one got it drilled and that was a trick very hard put the easy out and turned it and it broke off not having a good week so now I bought a cobalt set hopefully that will be stronger. Then after I broke the first one you thought I would've learned no I'm broke too and then went ahead for a third one oh well live and learn
Last edited by Tileman2692; 02-11-2019 at 05:08 PM.
#22
#23
Inch pounds. Not foot pounds.
And on those, all you really need is wrist tight. If you use a 1/4" socket wrench and hold it so the head is in the palm of your hand, you cant go wrong.
I don't mean to sound like a dick, but you need to slow down and do more thinking about what you're doing. Don't rush to get this mess cleaned up. You'll just make a bigger mess of it.
This started because of stuck T27 screws. I assume you broke off the bit you were using? Slow, smooth pressure works better, and if you get one that's really stuck, a small impact driver is useful.
So not to rub it in, but the mess you are in exists because you didn't stop and work out the immediate problem you were having.
Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.
And on those, all you really need is wrist tight. If you use a 1/4" socket wrench and hold it so the head is in the palm of your hand, you cant go wrong.
I don't mean to sound like a dick, but you need to slow down and do more thinking about what you're doing. Don't rush to get this mess cleaned up. You'll just make a bigger mess of it.
This started because of stuck T27 screws. I assume you broke off the bit you were using? Slow, smooth pressure works better, and if you get one that's really stuck, a small impact driver is useful.
So not to rub it in, but the mess you are in exists because you didn't stop and work out the immediate problem you were having.
Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.
Last edited by 0maha; 02-11-2019 at 05:08 PM.
#24
#25
#26
I have no idea why I'm entering this thread. There are some GREAT answers above this line and some, Hmmm, well some I hope you don't try.
I used to drill & tap a lot of tiny blind holes in really hard metal doing gun work. 6-48 taps are VERY easy to break! I learned to ALWAYS use carbon steel taps rather than tougher HS steel. The reason? If you break a carbon steel tap in a hole, you can (usually!) crush it with a punch, pick the pieces out and salvage the hole. Most easy outs I think will be HS steel. You are not going to drill it out with anything from the consumer market! It is highly unlikely you can drill it out with anything and salvage the hole - at least at home. It will be impossible to keep the drill centered in the various compositions of metals in there not to mention the ragged surface you have to start the drill into. It's gonna wander. As for welding a nut or another bolt onto it, correct me if I misunderstood, but this is a steel bolt in an aluminum part isn't it? Try that welding trick and you just might get it out, but probably not the way you expected.
Sorry friend. This is gonna call for professional intervention. We DIY'ers hate when that happens, but sometimes it's the only way.
Good luck, and be sure to let us know how it turned out!
I used to drill & tap a lot of tiny blind holes in really hard metal doing gun work. 6-48 taps are VERY easy to break! I learned to ALWAYS use carbon steel taps rather than tougher HS steel. The reason? If you break a carbon steel tap in a hole, you can (usually!) crush it with a punch, pick the pieces out and salvage the hole. Most easy outs I think will be HS steel. You are not going to drill it out with anything from the consumer market! It is highly unlikely you can drill it out with anything and salvage the hole - at least at home. It will be impossible to keep the drill centered in the various compositions of metals in there not to mention the ragged surface you have to start the drill into. It's gonna wander. As for welding a nut or another bolt onto it, correct me if I misunderstood, but this is a steel bolt in an aluminum part isn't it? Try that welding trick and you just might get it out, but probably not the way you expected.
Sorry friend. This is gonna call for professional intervention. We DIY'ers hate when that happens, but sometimes it's the only way.
Good luck, and be sure to let us know how it turned out!
#27
#28
#29
OK guys broken an easy out into the casing trying to put back the primary cover onto my Dyna broke three of the damn screws and drilling one of them out and trying to take it out with an easy out the darn easy out broke in there I've heard you need a diamond bitch or carbide bit so I could drill so I could get the Ezio out any suggestions
#30
Join Date: Mar 2016
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Give the guy some slack. This is how you learn, sadly enough. I've misread those dam inch-pound settings a time or two. difference is, I've been building engines for something like 60 years, so when it starts to feel 'bout tight enough, I stop and check what I'm measuring, and what the fastener is realy doing. Primary cover, 'bout tight enough is just fine. Head bolts want the right pressure and sequence.