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I use the nylon loops around the frame where possible, or pieces heavily attached to it like front crash bars, triple trees or peg mounts. Stay away from parts that aren't made to handle significant weight like handlebars, risers, sissybar, etc. Also, make sure your kickstand is up so you don't put too much force on it when the trailer hits bumps.
I was told to use the handlebars as a tie down point to compress the front shocks to keep the bike from bouncint. Regardless, make sure none of the tie downs touch any part of the bike that is painted like rear painted saddlebags. They will scratch the paint an you'll have to rub it out.
I was told the same thing that barjbar wrote. Even the HD dealership tied my 08 Ultra down by the handlebars when they loaded it. They even left the kick stand down, they put that strap on first and then compressed the front shocks with the strap on the right. That actualy pulled the kickstand off the deck of the trailer. Then you reverse the order taking them off, at least that is the way I have been taught.
Actually I know I'mcorrect because some motorcycle tie downs one end is looped to go thru the handlebar before you ratchet it down. When we trailered our bikes to W Virginia, we ratcheted down tight from the handlebars in fron, the saddlebag guards and or luggage rack in back. Ratchet the tie downs tight to compress the shocks. On the front chock, it had slits to tie down the front wheel. Pub a towell thru the wheel and the tie down over the towel or the bouncing around will cut the tie down (if your trailer is designed like that). Make sure no tie downs are touching painted parts of the bike or put a soft cloth between to protect the paint.
There's a thread somewhere on here that talks about whether or not to compress the front shocks. As for me, I have a Condor wheel chock and tie down according to their directions. I usually tie down on each passenger floorboard strut with the strap at a 90 degree angle to the bike going to the recessed hooks in the floor of the trailer. I then loop one strap each around the rider floorboard struts pulling the bike forward into the chock -- the recessed hooks I use for this step are at each front corner of the trailer. Bike doesn't budge.
I have the condor chock as well. I have 2 in my toyhauler, and I bought the extra bracket so I can switch the chock to my single trailer as well. They are worth the money.
The Condor chock is great, although a buddy had a problem with one going down to Daytona. He has an older Dyna Wide Glide, and the combination of thin front wheel and a lot of play in the front fork allowed his bike to pop out of the chock on the ride down. Opened the trailer at the camground and found it on it's side.
With a Condor chock, you should use ratchet ties from the back of the bike pulling forward to keep the bike firmly in the chock. With my Dyna (thin front wheel) I use non-ratcheting straps on the front fork with minimal compression to minimize side to side movement.
Going back to the question at hand: If you have an alternative to using the handlebars you should. The tie downs can transmit a lot of stress during transport, and could potentially bend the bars. BG Weasel has the right idea, look for frame mounted points and use soft ties to prevent having metal hooks scratching the bike. Think about the angles that you are pulling at and make sure the bike is stable. If you are using an open trailer, tape or tie off loose ends of straps so they don't whip the bike going down the road. Don't be afraid to check the bike at fuel and food stops. If you hit a bump that concerns you, pull over and check the bike.
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