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I posted about this problem back in Dec. I have a 96 1200 sportster. It has developed a problem of over flowing out of the carb. I took it apart and cleaned it and the problem went away the one afternoon when I took it for a short test ride. Well last we had decent weather and I rode to work and the over flow problem once again reared it's ugly head. I am the first to admit that I am not some great mechanic and know next to nothing about carbs, but I follow directions very well. The bike will run fine untill it starts to flood out of the over flow, then if I shut off the petcock , it will run fine until it starts to starve for fuel. Looking at the explode diagram it seems like a valve with clip or the needle jet. It really dosen't show how they come apart, a little help please?
If it's a CV carb pull the float bowl off (much easier off the bike) and with a small drift pin ( a small nail with its sharp end filed off works well) knock out the pin holding the float in place. (There's an arrow on the carb body showing the direction to push it out.) Remove the float needle and make note of its condition on the seat end. If it's damaged replace it. Blow the needle seat area out with compressed air. Put the needle back in just gently tight (don't hog down on it.) Then before you replace the float gently bend the tang the float hangs off of in a downward position so the float closes the needle valve sooner. That setup works exactly like the float ball in your toilet. One of those two things will probably fix your over flow issues. If not pull the carb and fully rebuild the whole thing. The kits for that are about 40 bucks.
If it's a CV carb pull the float bowl off (much easier off the bike) and with a small drift pin ( a small nail with its sharp end filed off works well) knock out the pin holding the float in place. (There's an arrow on the carb body showing the direction to push it out.) Remove the float needle and make note of its condition on the seat end. If it's damaged replace it. Blow the needle seat area out with compressed air. Put the needle back in just gently tight (don't hog down on it.) Then before you replace the float gently bend the tang the float hangs off of in a downward position so the float closes the needle valve sooner. That setup works exactly like the float ball in your toilet. One of those two things will probably fix your over flow issues. If not pull the carb and fully rebuild the whole thing. The kits for that are about 40 bucks.
I've never had the need to remove the whole carb, how much of a pain is it to remove?
and it very well be the float itself. If it has been punctured it won't "float" and seal off fuel flow when it needs to. If you are blowing down the road it is using all the fuel it gets. Idling it just keeps letting fuel in will probably continue to do so when the bike is shut off, unless you turn the valve off
I just took off the air cleaner assembly and the floot bowl. I used carb cleaner and compressed air to clean it out as best I coulc.
Not really a good thing to do IMO.The compressed air could possibly damage the float assy and other parts.
Best to remove the carb,diasemble then clean it and blow out the passages.
Replace the parts that come with the carb kit.
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Not really a good thing to do IMO.The compressed air could possibly damage the float assy and other parts.
Best to remove the carb,diasemble then clean it and blow out the passages.
Replace the parts that come with the carb kit.
Never use carb cleaner to soak. Work on small(like lawn mowers, chaine saws, etc) engines and soak them in white vineger. If I forget them overnight they are still there in the morning. I will spray small orifices w/ carb cleaner shows they are clear
In addition to the float and valve check for any bits of cork, plastic, rubber, rust or varnish. It doesn't take much to mess it up. If any of these are present find the source.
Check inside the gas tank, gas cap, fuel line and also replace the filter.
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