F150 loading ramp
Thanks in advance
works good but you must follow the instructions I learned the hard way. You really need a curb or ditch to get a good angle. My Low Rider will bottom out at the top when I dont have the end up on a curb or the rear wheels in a ditch. Plus I like that it breaks down into 3 parts which I can strap in next to the bike when it's loaded
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A key point is that I got a couple more of the mounting posts for the tailgate cables and installed them below the originals. That way, I can hook my tailgate cables lower, thus giving some angle to the tailgate, as shown. This was a huge improvement, as the mower decks would constantly hang up at the ramp/tailgate interface.
The winch is 2k Harbor Freight 12V electric from Ebay for $20, and the back Rack was a craigslist find for $40. The ramps themselves are from Highland, and they are adjustable by pulling the black pin out and sliding the two halves to the desired length. I always use 8' for loading, then collapse them to smallest size (4.5') for storage in the bed. They fit very nicely crosswise in the bed and serve as chocks behind the wheels of the tractor I have loaded to keep it from moving back and forth (even though it has the brakes on and is in gear).
Here is one of several links selling the ramp: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_47721_47721?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Ramps-_-Telescoping%20Ramps-_-330306&ci_sku=330306&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}
These may not be the best alternative, as they sometimes slide across the tailgate a bit when loading. No big deal for loading mowers at low speeds, but potentially disastrous if riding a 700 lb bike up the ramp. My main point was to illustrate how to lower the tailgate to improve the angle for loading anything into the back of a pickup, if you are going to do it frequently.
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