When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This isn't rocket science and everyone can do what they want. I have developed a routine that works for me throughout the years. On my Harley's. I light them off. Wait for the Evo to maintain idle with the throttle screw snug to hold at least 1200 rpm. I then finish putting on gloves. Do a final walk around and sit down on the seat. Lift her off the kickstand. Lift the stand into place. Pull in the clutch while releasing off the throttle screw and letting her Evo slide into her lope. The Twin cam does her adjustments since she is fuel injected. On both motorcycles after transmission slows down, I ease her into gear with a firm thump. If it is carbed I either use the choke or enrichenier. Fuel injected takes care of itself on warm up idling. I light them off and take them to at least 1200 rpm if they don't do it automatically. I hold them there for at least a minute. That oils the cams and gets the rockers oiled. Flat cam lobs beyond normal wear come from low oil pressure starts over time. I then wait at least another minute and sometimes several for the engines to finish warming. I then proceed to lightly load them up and get started on what they do best. Which is power up something I use or ride in or on. After these engines are at operating temp and all the dissimilar metals have got to there normal expansions. I load them up to whatever I want. This applies to my aircraft engines, Evo's, Twin Cam's, V-8 gas engine's and diesel's. A wiser man then myself once told me she doesn't sing worth a darn till her throats warmed up good then she is an angel to be heard. We were looking at a pan head when she was almost new. Your engines, do what you want. At work it is different and we rely on block heaters to keep the oils warm. It is light off and go which I really hate to do but it is necessary.
If you have forged pistons in your engine, you should let it warm up well before putting any load on it. Forged pistons expand a lot more and more slowly than a cast piston ( cold clearance is a lot higher than cast pistons), and scuffing the piston or cyl or damaging the rings happens a lot with insufficient warming. That is where the term "cold sieze" comes from.
I always let mine idle at 1200 - 1300 rpm until the cylinder fins are reasonably warm to the touch.
The engine should be allowed to run slowly for 15-30 seconds. This will allow the engine to warm up and let oil reach all surfaces needing lubrication. Failure to comply can result in engine damage.
I usually start mine before I put on the gloves. By the time my gloves are on and I'm settled and ready to go it's been about 20 seconds.
I usually pull my bike out of the garage, fire it up and rev the engine for 20 -30 minutes before I turn it off and put it back in the garage. My neighbors love me!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.