Operating Temp/Heat Cycling
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Operating Temp/Heat Cycling
Probably a stupid question but I am planning on Heat Cycling my engine after my FM107 install. Reading about heat cycling break-in instructions it says to let the engine run at operating temp for different periods of time/intervals. That all fine and dandy but how do I know when it's at operating temp? I don't have an engine temp guage, only air temp so that doesn't help. Any ideas?
Unofficial HDF Chaplain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 21,160
Likes: 18,083
From: san diego
right from zippers good info, I use it all the time
IMPORTANT!!
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FO
R INITIAL START-UP AND HEAT
CYCLING!!
Please Read
Before
Assembling Your Engine!
After careful assembly of your new engine, follow
these important steps during initial start-up.
1. Make sure you have oil pressure.
Twin Cam engines pressurize the oil first, then run it through the oil filter
before it starts to lubricate critical engine areas. The very last parts to see oil are the cylinder heads; coincidentally,
the heads are quick to generate heat and need oil for lubricati
on and to carry heat away from these critical areas.
For this reason, we highly recommend using 5W30 motor oil for priming and initial fire-up.
During assembly,
prime the lower end with a new oil filter in place (fill it with oil before installation), and be sure to pour 4-6 ounces of
oil directly on the valve springs and valve stems. Leave
the rocker lids off until you have verified oil flow to the
rocker arms. Before starting the engine, cycle it in s
hort bursts with the starter (plugs out but grounded). Install
rocker lids after you have verified oil flow to the rocker
area. Without oil, valve and guide damage can occur.
2. Start the engine in short stages (heat cycles).
Perfect piston fit is a critical factor for engine performance
and long engine life. An incredible amount of heat is
generated between the rings, pistons and cylinders during
initial start-up. It is at this point where clearances are
the tightest and your rings, pist
ons and cylinders will meet for
the first time.
Newly assembled EFI engines using ThunderMax engine management should bypass the
usual process of letting the engine perform a full warm-up cycle to operating temperature on the sidestand
until
after
the following heat-cycling steps are performed.
Follow the instructions below and you'll be rewarded
with an engine that will last longer and perform better.
DO NOT ESTIMATE TIME - USE A WATCH
3. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th fire-ups:
These are very short run times! Each
of these initial 4 start-ups should last
only ten (10) seconds each at 1250 - 1400 rpms (just above id
le speed). After each star
t-up, allow the cylinders to
cool to room temperature. Don't rush it. Take
your time. Your new parts need to get acquainted.
4. 5th, 6th 7th and 8th fire-ups:
Run times increase slightly. Run t
hese 4 start-ups at 1250 - 1400 rpms, 15-20
seconds each, with time to cool to
room temperature between each time.
5. 9th, 10th and 11th fire-ups:
With a fan blowing air at the engine, increase run times to 45 seconds each, again
at 1250 -1400 rpms. Allow cooling to r
oom temperature between runs, as before.
6. Next 2 runs:
No more than 1-1/2 minutes each. Continue to
use a fan, but don't neglect the cooling period.
These first few minutes of run time are critical to esta
blish cylinder and piston wear patterns and to protect the rings
from overheating.
Remember: pistons don't die....they are
murdered!
The absolute worst thing you could do is
start a fresh engine and let it idle, while you kick
back and watch it melt from the inside out.
7. Change the oil to 20/50 or 20/60 (hot summer). Now you can start the break-in process while riding the
bike.
Make your first rides short ones, with adequate cool
ing stops along the way. Don't lug the engine and avoid
stop-and-go traffic. Pick a route that will allow you to
ride at moderate speeds, while shifting through the rpm
range. Keep rpm levels moderate; increase them gradua
lly as you log on the miles. Since your new engine will
generate significantly more power, it will likely realize an in
crease in operating temperature. A quality oil cooler is
also a smart investment and is highly recommended.
Thanks for your purchase of our pr
IMPORTANT!!
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FO
R INITIAL START-UP AND HEAT
CYCLING!!
Please Read
Before
Assembling Your Engine!
After careful assembly of your new engine, follow
these important steps during initial start-up.
1. Make sure you have oil pressure.
Twin Cam engines pressurize the oil first, then run it through the oil filter
before it starts to lubricate critical engine areas. The very last parts to see oil are the cylinder heads; coincidentally,
the heads are quick to generate heat and need oil for lubricati
on and to carry heat away from these critical areas.
For this reason, we highly recommend using 5W30 motor oil for priming and initial fire-up.
During assembly,
prime the lower end with a new oil filter in place (fill it with oil before installation), and be sure to pour 4-6 ounces of
oil directly on the valve springs and valve stems. Leave
the rocker lids off until you have verified oil flow to the
rocker arms. Before starting the engine, cycle it in s
hort bursts with the starter (plugs out but grounded). Install
rocker lids after you have verified oil flow to the rocker
area. Without oil, valve and guide damage can occur.
2. Start the engine in short stages (heat cycles).
Perfect piston fit is a critical factor for engine performance
and long engine life. An incredible amount of heat is
generated between the rings, pistons and cylinders during
initial start-up. It is at this point where clearances are
the tightest and your rings, pist
ons and cylinders will meet for
the first time.
Newly assembled EFI engines using ThunderMax engine management should bypass the
usual process of letting the engine perform a full warm-up cycle to operating temperature on the sidestand
until
after
the following heat-cycling steps are performed.
Follow the instructions below and you'll be rewarded
with an engine that will last longer and perform better.
DO NOT ESTIMATE TIME - USE A WATCH
3. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th fire-ups:
These are very short run times! Each
of these initial 4 start-ups should last
only ten (10) seconds each at 1250 - 1400 rpms (just above id
le speed). After each star
t-up, allow the cylinders to
cool to room temperature. Don't rush it. Take
your time. Your new parts need to get acquainted.
4. 5th, 6th 7th and 8th fire-ups:
Run times increase slightly. Run t
hese 4 start-ups at 1250 - 1400 rpms, 15-20
seconds each, with time to cool to
room temperature between each time.
5. 9th, 10th and 11th fire-ups:
With a fan blowing air at the engine, increase run times to 45 seconds each, again
at 1250 -1400 rpms. Allow cooling to r
oom temperature between runs, as before.
6. Next 2 runs:
No more than 1-1/2 minutes each. Continue to
use a fan, but don't neglect the cooling period.
These first few minutes of run time are critical to esta
blish cylinder and piston wear patterns and to protect the rings
from overheating.
Remember: pistons don't die....they are
murdered!
The absolute worst thing you could do is
start a fresh engine and let it idle, while you kick
back and watch it melt from the inside out.
7. Change the oil to 20/50 or 20/60 (hot summer). Now you can start the break-in process while riding the
bike.
Make your first rides short ones, with adequate cool
ing stops along the way. Don't lug the engine and avoid
stop-and-go traffic. Pick a route that will allow you to
ride at moderate speeds, while shifting through the rpm
range. Keep rpm levels moderate; increase them gradua
lly as you log on the miles. Since your new engine will
generate significantly more power, it will likely realize an in
crease in operating temperature. A quality oil cooler is
also a smart investment and is highly recommended.
Thanks for your purchase of our pr
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
right from zippers good info, I use it all the time
IMPORTANT!!
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FO
R INITIAL START-UP AND HEAT
CYCLING!!
Please Read
Before
Assembling Your Engine!
After careful assembly of your new engine, follow
these important steps during initial start-up.
1. Make sure you have oil pressure.
Twin Cam engines pressurize the oil first, then run it through the oil filter
before it starts to lubricate critical engine areas. The very last parts to see oil are the cylinder heads; coincidentally,
the heads are quick to generate heat and need oil for lubricati
on and to carry heat away from these critical areas.
For this reason, we highly recommend using 5W30 motor oil for priming and initial fire-up.
During assembly,
prime the lower end with a new oil filter in place (fill it with oil before installation), and be sure to pour 4-6 ounces of
oil directly on the valve springs and valve stems. Leave
the rocker lids off until you have verified oil flow to the
rocker arms. Before starting the engine, cycle it in s
hort bursts with the starter (plugs out but grounded). Install
rocker lids after you have verified oil flow to the rocker
area. Without oil, valve and guide damage can occur.
2. Start the engine in short stages (heat cycles).
Perfect piston fit is a critical factor for engine performance
and long engine life. An incredible amount of heat is
generated between the rings, pistons and cylinders during
initial start-up. It is at this point where clearances are
the tightest and your rings, pist
ons and cylinders will meet for
the first time.
Newly assembled EFI engines using ThunderMax engine management should bypass the
usual process of letting the engine perform a full warm-up cycle to operating temperature on the sidestand
until
after
the following heat-cycling steps are performed.
Follow the instructions below and you'll be rewarded
with an engine that will last longer and perform better.
DO NOT ESTIMATE TIME - USE A WATCH
3. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th fire-ups:
These are very short run times! Each
of these initial 4 start-ups should last
only ten (10) seconds each at 1250 - 1400 rpms (just above id
le speed). After each star
t-up, allow the cylinders to
cool to room temperature. Don't rush it. Take
your time. Your new parts need to get acquainted.
4. 5th, 6th 7th and 8th fire-ups:
Run times increase slightly. Run t
hese 4 start-ups at 1250 - 1400 rpms, 15-20
seconds each, with time to cool to
room temperature between each time.
5. 9th, 10th and 11th fire-ups:
With a fan blowing air at the engine, increase run times to 45 seconds each, again
at 1250 -1400 rpms. Allow cooling to r
oom temperature between runs, as before.
6. Next 2 runs:
No more than 1-1/2 minutes each. Continue to
use a fan, but don't neglect the cooling period.
These first few minutes of run time are critical to esta
blish cylinder and piston wear patterns and to protect the rings
from overheating.
Remember: pistons don't die....they are
murdered!
The absolute worst thing you could do is
start a fresh engine and let it idle, while you kick
back and watch it melt from the inside out.
7. Change the oil to 20/50 or 20/60 (hot summer). Now you can start the break-in process while riding the
bike.
Make your first rides short ones, with adequate cool
ing stops along the way. Don't lug the engine and avoid
stop-and-go traffic. Pick a route that will allow you to
ride at moderate speeds, while shifting through the rpm
range. Keep rpm levels moderate; increase them gradua
lly as you log on the miles. Since your new engine will
generate significantly more power, it will likely realize an in
crease in operating temperature. A quality oil cooler is
also a smart investment and is highly recommended.
Thanks for your purchase of our pr
IMPORTANT!!
FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS FO
R INITIAL START-UP AND HEAT
CYCLING!!
Please Read
Before
Assembling Your Engine!
After careful assembly of your new engine, follow
these important steps during initial start-up.
1. Make sure you have oil pressure.
Twin Cam engines pressurize the oil first, then run it through the oil filter
before it starts to lubricate critical engine areas. The very last parts to see oil are the cylinder heads; coincidentally,
the heads are quick to generate heat and need oil for lubricati
on and to carry heat away from these critical areas.
For this reason, we highly recommend using 5W30 motor oil for priming and initial fire-up.
During assembly,
prime the lower end with a new oil filter in place (fill it with oil before installation), and be sure to pour 4-6 ounces of
oil directly on the valve springs and valve stems. Leave
the rocker lids off until you have verified oil flow to the
rocker arms. Before starting the engine, cycle it in s
hort bursts with the starter (plugs out but grounded). Install
rocker lids after you have verified oil flow to the rocker
area. Without oil, valve and guide damage can occur.
2. Start the engine in short stages (heat cycles).
Perfect piston fit is a critical factor for engine performance
and long engine life. An incredible amount of heat is
generated between the rings, pistons and cylinders during
initial start-up. It is at this point where clearances are
the tightest and your rings, pist
ons and cylinders will meet for
the first time.
Newly assembled EFI engines using ThunderMax engine management should bypass the
usual process of letting the engine perform a full warm-up cycle to operating temperature on the sidestand
until
after
the following heat-cycling steps are performed.
Follow the instructions below and you'll be rewarded
with an engine that will last longer and perform better.
DO NOT ESTIMATE TIME - USE A WATCH
3. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th fire-ups:
These are very short run times! Each
of these initial 4 start-ups should last
only ten (10) seconds each at 1250 - 1400 rpms (just above id
le speed). After each star
t-up, allow the cylinders to
cool to room temperature. Don't rush it. Take
your time. Your new parts need to get acquainted.
4. 5th, 6th 7th and 8th fire-ups:
Run times increase slightly. Run t
hese 4 start-ups at 1250 - 1400 rpms, 15-20
seconds each, with time to cool to
room temperature between each time.
5. 9th, 10th and 11th fire-ups:
With a fan blowing air at the engine, increase run times to 45 seconds each, again
at 1250 -1400 rpms. Allow cooling to r
oom temperature between runs, as before.
6. Next 2 runs:
No more than 1-1/2 minutes each. Continue to
use a fan, but don't neglect the cooling period.
These first few minutes of run time are critical to esta
blish cylinder and piston wear patterns and to protect the rings
from overheating.
Remember: pistons don't die....they are
murdered!
The absolute worst thing you could do is
start a fresh engine and let it idle, while you kick
back and watch it melt from the inside out.
7. Change the oil to 20/50 or 20/60 (hot summer). Now you can start the break-in process while riding the
bike.
Make your first rides short ones, with adequate cool
ing stops along the way. Don't lug the engine and avoid
stop-and-go traffic. Pick a route that will allow you to
ride at moderate speeds, while shifting through the rpm
range. Keep rpm levels moderate; increase them gradua
lly as you log on the miles. Since your new engine will
generate significantly more power, it will likely realize an in
crease in operating temperature. A quality oil cooler is
also a smart investment and is highly recommended.
Thanks for your purchase of our pr
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,402
Likes: 941
From: Illinois
I heat cycle every new bike I get. It is the length time of each cycle not operating temps. The idea is not to reach operating temps.
Awhile back American Iron Magazine reported on heat cycling and had the HD, S&S and another builders specs.
I did one cycle in the morning, one in the afternoon and one at night. That gave me the typical 12 heat cycles in four days. Each cycle has a time limit and must start from ambient temperature. Then the next cycle is longer.
Google it any there may be specifics.
It does not break an engine in, it prepares the engine for break in. I follow the HD owners manual to a T. Then I go beyond by gradually running in for 3,000 miles.
Each of my bikes motors TC96,103,110, EVO 1200 and Evolution motors run stronger than average when compared to other stock bikes. My son was complaining that he expected more with his move from a TC88 to the Ultra TC103. I gave him the keys to my TC103 and when he came back he said it was much stronger than his. In additon my TC103 in the Road Glide gives me 52 mpg. The 12 RGC CVO gets 50 mpg.
Or you can try what some idiots do. Put the new bike on a dyno and wring the crap out of it and see what happens.
Awhile back American Iron Magazine reported on heat cycling and had the HD, S&S and another builders specs.
I did one cycle in the morning, one in the afternoon and one at night. That gave me the typical 12 heat cycles in four days. Each cycle has a time limit and must start from ambient temperature. Then the next cycle is longer.
Google it any there may be specifics.
It does not break an engine in, it prepares the engine for break in. I follow the HD owners manual to a T. Then I go beyond by gradually running in for 3,000 miles.
Each of my bikes motors TC96,103,110, EVO 1200 and Evolution motors run stronger than average when compared to other stock bikes. My son was complaining that he expected more with his move from a TC88 to the Ultra TC103. I gave him the keys to my TC103 and when he came back he said it was much stronger than his. In additon my TC103 in the Road Glide gives me 52 mpg. The 12 RGC CVO gets 50 mpg.
Or you can try what some idiots do. Put the new bike on a dyno and wring the crap out of it and see what happens.
Last edited by lh4x4; Apr 4, 2013 at 06:18 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,727
Likes: 11
From: TN
I heat cycle every new bike I get. It is the length time of each cycle not operating temps. The idea is not to reach operating temps.
Awhile back American Iron Magazine reported on heat cycling and had the HD, S&S and another builders specs.
I did one cycle in the morning, one in the afternoon and one at night. That gave me the typical 12 heat cycles in four days. Each cycle has a time limit and must start from ambient temperature. Then the next cycle is longer.
Google it any there may be specifics.
It does not break an engine in, it prepares the engine for break in. I follow the HD owners manual to a T. Then I go beyond by gradually running in for 3,000 miles.
Each of my bikes motors TC96,103,110, EVO 1200 and Evolution motors run stronger than average when compared to other stock bikes. My son was complaining that he expected more with his move from a TC88 to the Ultra TC103. I gave him the keys to my TC103 and when he came back he said it was much stronger than his. In additon my TC103 in the Road Glide gives me 52 mpg. The 12 RGC CVO gets 50 mpg.
Or you can try what some idiots do. Put the new bike on a dyno and wring the crap out of it and see what happens.
Awhile back American Iron Magazine reported on heat cycling and had the HD, S&S and another builders specs.
I did one cycle in the morning, one in the afternoon and one at night. That gave me the typical 12 heat cycles in four days. Each cycle has a time limit and must start from ambient temperature. Then the next cycle is longer.
Google it any there may be specifics.
It does not break an engine in, it prepares the engine for break in. I follow the HD owners manual to a T. Then I go beyond by gradually running in for 3,000 miles.
Each of my bikes motors TC96,103,110, EVO 1200 and Evolution motors run stronger than average when compared to other stock bikes. My son was complaining that he expected more with his move from a TC88 to the Ultra TC103. I gave him the keys to my TC103 and when he came back he said it was much stronger than his. In additon my TC103 in the Road Glide gives me 52 mpg. The 12 RGC CVO gets 50 mpg.
Or you can try what some idiots do. Put the new bike on a dyno and wring the crap out of it and see what happens.
Bwana
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 545
Likes: 8
From: antelope valley ca.
My 107 got hot pretty fast on first start up, this was run about 5 minutes, you can monitor your head temps with a infra red thermometer. The zippers procedure looks spot on, I wish I would have seen it when I built mine.
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